Fish Tank Utopia

“ I don’t mind eating this everyday, ” commented Shwe Zin (Gold style) as she lovingly toys her bowl of ‘Brass Pot’ with chopsticks prepared with pork balls and small bits of fish too, In Myanmar language, the dish is well known as ‘Kyee O’, if translated directly ‘Brass Pot’. So-called as cooking was carried out individually for each bowl in a brass pot on a super high heat firing gas burner, which took less than five minutes from start to serving. They also put two pieces of quail eggs, which was nice she thought. Shwe Zin preferred her Kyee O with small rice noodles (vermicelli). She is in the opinion that it compliments the meat and brings out its full flavor. In her frame of mind, it makes a well satisfying meal, each bowl piping hot and sprinkled with extra pepper and finely cut fresh spring onion shoots accompanied by a small side dip concoction of chili and soy sauces, which watered her mouth. One bowl was just sufficient, fills the stomach, satisfying and not over the top either.

“ I don’t mind on regular basis but not everyday, ” replied Phyu Sin (Always fair), friends since school, university and at work also. Their likes and dislikes were similar, but she thought her friend went too far on this issue. She would not trade her daily dose of rice with a curry. They both work for The International, a four star hotel near the Kaba Aye Pagoda (World Peace Pagoda), a stone or two throw away from the said famous Pagoda, built in 1952 by U Nu (first Prime Minister of Burma) in preparation for the 6^th Buddhist Council.

Both Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin are great friends and joined the International Hotel straight after their graduation. Their marks at matriculation examinations were of similar scores, and both applied to read Zoology as first preference and were permitted accordingly as such. A period of 4 years and (Bachelor of Science) BSc Degrees in hand, happy to land a job at 21 years of age, but to work as Assistant Housekeepers at a hotel. Beggars cannot be choosers, after all, jobs were hard to come by and it could have been like searching for a needle in a haystack. Luckily they secured a job and did not need to hunt for it similar to their other contemporaries. The Housekeeping Department maintains three shifts daily, and at times Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin were not on the same shift, due to the roster giving equal chances to all, to be fair. Shwe Zin prefers to catch a few winks at their Housekeeping Store on her duty floor when on early morning shifts as it was much cooler than home, even though no air conditioning. This was not permitted, however, all remained mum till someone complains. Better rested at source to face another grueling day, I suppose.

Home was a room in Police Line Quarters, near the Old Racecourse, now a College for Physical Education in Yangon.  Shwe Zin’s father being a Police Corporal, with over 16 years service was entitled to reside there. The quarters were rows upon rows of small rooms interconnected with common toilets, must be hundreds of lines, each quarter improvised to suit their occupant needs. Kitchen was a small manual stove in the tiny room with bath facilities by the various common taps, strategically located around the compound when the water flow was on. Original quarters were of concrete construction while many, many more were put together with wooden planks, must be added ons at a later date. The whole compound being residential quarters to Policemen stationed in the Yangon Division and Phyu Sin lives in a concrete constructed line quarters, closer to the main road as her father position was a Sergeant, but not in the same Station as her father. The only plus point was there were no electricity or water bills waiting at the end of the month, but its flows were somewhat irregular, only when the establishments concerned were able to distribute, that was from time to time. Otherwise, water must be purchased on 4 gallons per can basis from water peddlers on push wheel carts who tour the whole compound daily and advertise at the top of their voices. When the electricity was down, most uses candles for lighting and charcoal or bundles of firewood purchased from the market close by for cooking, less than ten minutes walk from their line quarters. As all occupants were in the same boat, thus borrowing at times were not too difficult.      

The girls shared everything, from their foods to their thoughts, including boys having an eye for them, not that they ever engage any, due to their dire financial situation and not to burden their families further. They do have a good laugh, and proud that their bodies and features attracts the opposite sex, thus they must be desirable, a consolation at that. Their salaries at the hotel were in US Dollars, which they hand over to their mothers regularly at the end of each month, to become the main breadwinner of their respective families, more than their father’s pay packets. As pocket or spending money, they relied on tips made by room guests, who leave a small amount on their departure, normally by the bedside table as a gesture of gratitude. This token was not a must, but often than not, they do leave a something on their checking out. Depending on the guests, tips can be in the currency of US Dollars, Sterling Pounds, Singapore Dollars, Malaysian Ringgits, Thai Bhats, Myanmar Kyats etc., mostly in the form of assorted coins, which they change back to Myanmar Kyats in the black market at a lower rate of exchange, not being notes. The girls’ works were segregated by floors and rotated weekly.  Tips varies from month to month and season to season, with rainy periods being the drought.

However nobody complained or made a fuss as it was something extra, over and above their salaries which needed no sharing. One just keeps what you get and maybe buy a cake or something for the Supervisor Housekeeper now and then, to be in her good books. The money was not that great, at least it helps run their households and stretch money to go further.

Shwe Zin continued, “ A bowl of Kyee O is piping hot, freshly prepared in front of you and filling, no need to eat again at home to say the least. It is also healthy as no oil was used compared to other foods that are available by the street, not to mention money bleeding expensive either. ”

Phyu Sin countered, “ What you said is correct. But to me, it becomes monotonous if daily. I would not trade it to my daily rice with a curry or a meat dish, which is more traditional, economical and satisfying. Maybe also due to the fact not eating Kyee O while growing up as it was considered an extra expense. ”

The girls smiled and giggled at each other comments not disregarding their own personal point of view. This was the only time both can be free and let their hair down as it were, before taking a bus ride back to their homes. To tread into other activities was not free and also money draining which would not do. Whatever, the girls were not too unhappy with their current financial status and would seek greener pastures when opportunity arises at a later date.

Both were correct in their own rights and presumably to each it’s own.  The girls patronize the small food outlet on the Parami Road, simply under the name of ‘Hot Pots’. This establishment was in close proximity of ‘Shwe Yone Lay’ meaning ‘Small golden rabbit’ another Kyee O (Brass Pot) outlet, only a few hundred yards from each other. Competitors at best, luring and wooing the public at large to patronize their food stall, not too openly, mind you. The girls and most of the younger crowds patronize ‘Hot Pots’ as its new, run by similar age group, clean and modern, also having an air conditioned small hall or if desirable, sit outside by the platform under the shade of large umbrellas, and gaze at the passer bys and watch the traffic plodding along. The outlet screens a popular Burmese movie on DVD (digital video discs) when no Premier League and similar football matches were beamed into their large satellite dishes, being the number one most popular on large flat television screens, also well utilized by tea stops, food outlets, hair saloons, beer gardens and many, many more to attract customers, believe it or not, it actually works.

Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin preferred to be inside the air-conditioned small hall as it was cooler and dry, besides its more quiet and able conduct a decent conversation without the need to raise one’s voice. They patronize the ’Hot Pots’ about once or twice a week after their day’s shift before making their way home. A good time to wind down and relax and no need to warm the food again back at home to eat. Usually the hotel’s staff bus picks them up before their shifts and sends them back with others after their shifts. One hot meal, rice (free flow) with curry was served in the staff canteen down in the basement. It’s nothing to shout about, but at least it fills their stomachs and cooler than home, even without air-conditioning. On being recruited, they were given an aluminum set meal tray where rice, curry and soup were served proportionally and their duty to wash it afterwards and store it in their respective allotted lockers. While having their meals in the canteen, they were asked about their fathers’ profession. When told that they were Policemen, most shied away slowly and never to mix with them again. They were not lepers and wondered why?

On joining, Daw Mya Mya (Madam Emerald) lectured how they should conduct themselves in Housekeeping. Dos and don’ts as it were. She said the golden rule was to obey set regulations at all times without exception, otherwise they can kiss their jobs goodbye. She meant it too.

“ Remember do your jobs and shut up. If you don’t like it, leave. No one including myself will stop you. That’s a promise. ”

Those were the welcoming kind words of Daw Mya Mya. To them she was next to God and not a single word uttered than that from her. At the canteen even though they may be sitting with others on the same table, cold shoulder treatment was order of the day. No one colluded with them as though they were Black Plague, Ebola or some sickly contagious decease. Somehow, the girls could sense that policemen were not appreciated by general consensus.

They both continued to work there for the money, and not for the company to be sure. Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin were biding their time to be matured enough and move on to Sedona Hotel, a five star establishment down the road, not too far away. Till then they were biting their bullets, more importantly shut up, zipped at all times. Silence and no complains or comments kept their jobs alive for the time being.

One lunchtime, a group of girls on the same table voiced out among themselves so that they could pick up their conversation. Cruelty comes in many forms, not necessarily with a physical weapon.

“ Do you know that Policemen are always on the take, its second nature to them. There is a sign ‘May I help you’ in front of each Police Station, what they actually meant was ‘I’ll help myself’. ”

All laughed loudly and another girl picked up the pace and continued hitting the punching bag.

“ Not only that, I’ve been told that like magic they can transform large cases to small ones and small cases to disappear completely whether you were in the right or wrong, you just needed money. That’s why their motto ‘May I help you’, get it? ”

Yet another girl continued and concluded their smears for that session.

“ The morale here is never to approach Policemen if you don’t have the money. “

All laughed and giggled in unison without a thought for Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin, as though they were not there at all or not worthy to be bothered. Those never-ending sickly jokes and comments were showered at them at every opportunity, in different shades but the message being the same.

After the group of so called comrades left the table, both looked at each other with amazement, shocked to their unkind comments. How these girls could dish out such unfounded senseless smears at every opportunity they cannot comprehend.

Escaping the slanders in the staff canteen was a loosing game. Two against a band of chambermaids, waitresses, kitchen staff, cleaners and their friends were no match and open contest they rather shy away, after all, it was an one sided affair with sure enough outcome declared even before the anticipated competition. Talk about fair fights!

Shwe Zin said, “ My father have been a Policeman for 16 years and all my life our existence has been in the Police Line Quarters. If what they said were true, today we would be living in a big house with a car and a chauffeur.”

Phyu Sin seconds her friend opinion, “ Hear, hear, they were just letting out foul gasses from their mouths without any substance, not worth thinking about it. ”

Shwe Zin continued eating her lunch with difficulty. Anger brewed inside, boiling with heat and unable to let off steam, as she was lacking to put up a defense. Even if she had, it would have gone to deaf ears. She thought back and while weighing the smears, they were staying in a small room Policemen Quarters, with her father forking out of his own pocket for a small wooden loft on top of the small room, so that her siblings of total four could sleep there. Her parents slept downstairs on the floor with a mattress. Futhermore she only saw of her father late each evening and he would disappear early in the mornings and always in his uniform 24/7.  Her mother has a knocked down small make shift wooden planks stall in front of their quarters, selling paan, cigarettes, cheroots, sweets and a few tit bits to supplement her husband income. Should her father be on the take, he either was not giving enough to her mother or he’s got another family to support, which seemed at best most unlikely. Suppose similar was to be said of Phyu Sin’s father who also lives in the compound for years. Hard to swallow, but there you are.

Young Shwe Zin did see bus drivers or conductors pass small packet of paans, daily newspapers or small amount of cash being handed to traffic policemen at major road junctions as gifts. But in her opinion that does not constitute ‘a take’, after all, those kind gestures does not make them rich, maybe small cash donations does contribute to their daily meals. Those kindly acts in any sense of the word were not to suppress any traffic offences either. The girls at the canteen were unfairly being spiteful to their parents.  At times it become difficult to turn the other cheek, but she intended to keep her cool and not let them see victory.

After patronizing ‘Hot Pots’ for a few months, at times the cook would strike a conversation with them. They were roughly of the same age group and not bad looking either. The cook was not the smelly, sweaty fat guy with dirty overalls, but he was well sufficiently dressed considering his vocation, with a neat haircut and fresh looking at all times coupled with good manners and welcoming smile. He’s maybe a shade handsome in her opinion too.

“ My name is Ko Zaw Win (Adamantly shining), hope my preparations are to your taste and liking. ”

“ I’m Shwe Zin and she is Phyu Sin, the Kyee Os are fine, we like it. Been here long? ”

“ I’ve been working here since before securing my Bachelor of Commerce Degree (BCom) during weekends as an Assistant Cook. After securing my Degree, stopped for a few years and went to Bangkok and Singapore and worked there for a while. Came back last year and my owner friend offered me a Cook’s position due vacancy, as I got some cooking experience and became a partner of this establishment, quite some time ago on account of good support I was able to create with my cooking. ”

Shwe Zin continued, “ We work at The International Hotel as Assistant Housekeepers and supports your outlet, the taste is to our liking. Profitable? ”

“ Thank you for your kind support. The establishment is coming on fine with your and the public support, but still not breakeven as yet. I think it may take a couple more years should the support does not diminish. ”

Ko Zaw Win was 25 years old and worked as a helper and a cook at a Bangkok Food Court for about a year and moved on to Singapore where he got a job as an  Accounts Clerk for a car spare parts store in Rochor Center. There, he worked for about two years and returned back to Yangon as his younger sister was alone in their parent big house. He’s a Shan national and his businessmen parents were in Myitkyeenar, capital of Kachin State, north of Myanmar. His family all worked in the private sector doing one business or another. Ko Zaw Win likes Shwe Zin, as she was beautiful, young and cheerful. Both girls were a bit dark and not as fair like him as she was from the delta town of Pathein and Phyu Sin graced from Mandalay. They have been patronizing his food outlet for nearly a year and nowadays once he sees them, would prepare the Kyee Os (Brass Pots) and serve directly to them personally. He would prepare pork Kyee O (Brass Pot) with small rice noodles for Shwe Zin, and with flat rice noodles for Phyu Sin, all well understood and he looked forward to their every patronage.

One day Phyu Sin commented, “ Your pork and fish does not have any smells and that to me is important and furthermore, I like the plentiful pork balls, the size is just nice for each mouthful too. How do you do it? ”

“ Well young lady, the pork is purchased fresh daily at source and after they has been minced, I add the necessary spices, salt, pepper and other condiments. This is a trade secret not even my partner knows the exact combination and quantity. We know exactly how much to prepare daily and ensure no leftovers ever, from experience. Should there be more customers, tough luck, we cannot let our name be tainted. I also give you both more pork balls as you are my dear friends and close to my heart. So there you are, the cat is out of the bag. ”

They all giggled and laughed with satisfaction and content, the girls said thank you to him for his kindness.

One day, he went to Than Zay (Metal Market) in Chinatown and bought an iron framed glassed fish tank and a few gold fishes. The fish tank was two feet by one foot, not too large and the wrought iron frames were painted white. Back in his bedroom, he placed the fish tank beside his bed near the window together with his few novels, and laid a few underwater plants and three large stones from the yard together with the gold fishes. Whether the air pump working or not, he would sit on his bed and appreciate the spectacle unfolding in the new fish tank while the monsoon thrashed outside with a dash of lightening now and then. The scenes were like an underwater movie, except it was live with no two scenes alike. In the dryness and safety of his room, Ko Zaw Win enjoyed his latest possession, fishes swimming in and out of plants and around the stones looking like large cliffs. He loved the sight, so much so that it gave him more pleasure than watching television and could view it all day engrossed and in awe. He knew that once a week he needs to clean the fish tank and renew the water, but it was well worth the extra effort for his pleasure in return was immense with no added chores as far as he was concerned. Their source of food was pounded dry shrimps which can be bought for a few Kyats that needed a few sprinkles daily only, easy at that too, nothing too special. The sight was a tonic making him wind down slowly after a long grueling day at the Hot Pots and can be at peace with himself.

The next week, Shwe Zin came alone to The Hot Pots, soaked to the skin with her small automatic Pink umbrella, which clearly did not provided enough shelter. He loaned her his spare shirt and his wide Black umbrella. He served her a bowl of piping hot Kyee O as usual and she dug into it with zest while he sat beside her soaking in and admiring her beauty. He felt happy and satisfied seeing her enjoy a bowl of Kyee O that he prepared with (TLC) tender loving care.

“ What happened to your friend Phyu Sin? The rains are really pouring down super hard, it must be the depression in the Bay of Bengal. Do wait a few minutes before you proceed back home. Maybe the rains will give you a reprieve. I think you should wait. ”

“ Thank you Ko Zaw Win, I just might do that. Phyu Sin is down with flu but I think she should make it back to work tomorrow, the money is too important. ”

“ Ha Ha! How true Shwe Zin, where will we be without money, but health is more important to enable generate money. Yes? ”

“ I suppose so, each to it’s own. ”

Shwe Zin after her bowl of Kyee O continued to gulp down free flow of hot green tea, while waiting for the rain to simmer down and Ko Zaw Win sitting beside her glancing now and then at the weather outside waiting for a reprieve. The Assistant Cook took over the preparations while he talked to her. All well understood and the whole outlet was all for him. All hands hoped his wooing would be a success and marry her in not too far a distance.

“ By the way Shwe Zin, I’ve been meaning to ask, whether you wish to see The Titanic at the President next Saturday afternoon. It’s an old 1997 movie directed by James Camaron, staring Kate Winslet and Leonardo Dicaprio. The film picked up eleven Academies, an epic rerun picture. While I do know the show’s available on DVD (digital video disc), this is a chance to see it on wide screen again. What do you say? ”

“ I’ve heard of it but never seen as we do not own a video set at home. I shall have to ask Phyu Sin, we do not venture out on a date without each other. I’ve to check our working roaster again and ask her also. Coming here to Hot Pots is already stretching the issue. Do you mind? ”

Shwe Zin does sense that Ko Zaw Win likes her and she also feels the same towards him. However, he has not put in any words as such, which she thought would be nice to be enlightened. Still, suppose he never got the chance till now. Patronizing the food outlet was not for a bowl of Kyee O alone. He seemed to be a responsible person, matured in his actions, manly and kind also. Education wise, quite well read and socially, she just hoped that Ko Zaw Win and his family accept her humble status, a daughter of a policeman working as a housekeeper in a hotel with three younger spouses.

“ Good Lord! Of course not, I do not mind a bit. Please also invite her to join and do recheck your work schedules and let me know by Thursday. I need to arrange the tickets in advance for Saturday show. The movie is still popular even up to today, since you have not watched the movie before, I hope you will enjoy it too. ”

That said while the rain gave a slight recess, he guided Shwe Zin to her bus back home. Hotpots do sells well on rainy days especially inside the dry cool air-conditioned small hall. Money must be made when ever possible. Ko Zaw Win was happy as his establishment was doing rather well compared to Shwe Yone Lay, his nearest competitor. By Thursday, the girls appeared and Shwe Zin returned his spare shirt, washed, well pressed and his Black umbrella too. They confirmed that they would be at Hot Pots on Saturday after work around 1700 hours, and they shall be honoured and delighted to see the movie for 1830 hours show time. He made the necessary bookings for Saturday show accordingly with dress circle seats, the most expensive. He wanted to impress Shwe Zin with the best seats in the cinema, dry and air-conditioned with sofa seating. All rather  comfortable indeed and pleased with himself. He just hoped that this token of goodwill would impress her. Ko Zaw Win has made up his mind that Shwe Zin was for him, and would continue his advances till she accept him and wed her as his wife.

Saturday came and the girls did enjoy their usual bowl of Kyee O. They all took a bus to the President Cinema and sat on comfortable seats of the Dress Circle. Phyu Sin followed by Shwe Zin and Ko Zaw Win sat at the outermost seat before the isle. The view to the screen was unobstructed and The Titanic still holds the audience in awe and wow factor was still there after over 15 years. Both Phyu Sin and Shwe Zin who sat beside him did shed a few tears. He held Shwe Zin’s hands and she in return held his hand back. No negative response from her, which he was happy and pleased, most of all relieved. After the show, all three walked back to Sule Pagoda bus stop and took separate buses, as their routes were different. A ride back to North Dagon was not tight due to the evening part of Saturday and raining. A relief, but still need a daunting ride back.

The bus ride back time all told was about only 30 minutes, even in the pouring rain, even though North Dagon was suburbia well out of Yangon town center. It was more like holding on to a rocket, while the driver drove the bus as though on a racecourse with the conductor cheering him on to even make it faster while assisting the driver of traffic conditions. This was their normal driving style, whether day or night, congestion or otherwise, and not necessarily mean that buses were spread evenly, as they raced even with each other on the same route. They may also not stop at each bus stand, not really interested in serving the public, view the race was for stops where concentration of passengers are to be found. Should there be an accident and someone be hit, both the driver and the conductor would run away and disappear, leaving the bus and passengers high and dry as a matter of speech, for fear of being done in by the public and someone dying would surely mean a life prison sentence. This was normal for the bus riding public, accept this or find alternative means, which was non-existence. Some of the busses run are on Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG), to save on energy expenses, but the cylinders installed were a serious question mark on safety, thus one rides at own risks. For the common man, this was the only mode of transport to all parts of the city, much regret cannot turn to alternative railways where the coverage was not at par. In short buses were more interested to maximize their earnings during each run. Theirs were not monthly salaries but a percentage of takings on each round run, pre-arranged fixed amount going to the owner of the bus and the route operator.

Furthermore, while there were no more antique twentieth century automobiles on the roads, all roadways were jammed with majority of Japanese cars written off in their home country and with second lease of life here in Yangon. Most cars including buses in congestion were driving on the opposite roadway, as long as road space permitting. No need mention about disobedience to the law as this being the norm. Needless to mention new amended traffic laws and regulations are proven ineffective to cope with the increases, and unable to keep up with the present serge in vehicles population. Building a few flyovers were evident that those measures were insufficient, causing ease of traffic in one spot and building up in another. Car population are bursting at the seams, not to mention importation of petrol were abused resulting in increasing of prices at the pumps, while bus tickets rose gradually and demand for its services rising sharply and the supply unable to keep pace. Taxis are easy to flag down while charges skyrocketed, their reason being extra petrol used in long frequent congestions. The population in cities and towns also rose as people leave the ever-increasing jobless countryside, trying their luck here which all added to the dire dilemma. Suppose this must be the price of progress?

After Ko Zaw Win reached home luckily still in one piece, he had a bite to eat, which his sister reserved for him on the kitchen table, under a flies hood and took a quick bath from an old diesel drum by the rain drains behind the kitchen outside, fresh air and open space was to be good for the soul he supposed, but not necessarily mean enjoyed it. Like it or not, water was nature’s temperature and one can forget the cold and hot water taps. Afterwards he reached for his bed and put the mosquitoes net down and lay quietly while enjoying watch his fishes swam in the fish tank from rays escaping through the wooden planks partition of the sitting room florescent light in front, under the sound of rain trashing on the galvanized tin roof. Beautiful thoughts of Shwe Zin did enter his mind, but soon wondered whether his gold fishes were happy in their iron framed glassed tank. He then drifted his thoughts to the zoo’s lions and tigers in their iron bar cages and questioned whether they were also content and pleased, after all, they were fed regularly. Questions one after another started to appear in his mind and soon drifted into ninth heaven and fell asleep cozily, while the monsoon rain pounded outside. The tiredness and the comfort of the bed was too much for him to continue view the gala spectacle in his fish tank.

The next morning he was jolted by his Big Ben alarm clock beside his pillow and he jumped out casting the light cotton blanket aside, brushed his teeth, quickly bathed behind the kitchen and rushed for The Hot Pots without breakfast and greeting to his sister or her husband and his young niece too. This was not time for pleasantries, but the serious business of earning money draws him to the Hot Pots. Work was as usual and he must admit that the team does work hard and fast. Their jobs were important to them, or more correctly regular money income cannot be compromised. This was their lifeline. Such were the dilemma including for him.

Days passed and he did see Shwe Zin and Phyu Sin at least once a week at Hot Pots. They were regulars and Ko Zaw Win made it a point to prepare and serve them himself come what may. He liked Shwe Zin more and more and always looked forward to seeing her and Phyu Sin with anxiety. After weeks and months, rains were no more and the monsoon simmered down to be fresh, dry and cool once again. Clear skies were most welcomed as people do patronize the Hot Pots in the cool dry evenings and that meant positively good for business.

Ko Zaw Win one day felt confident enough and cut a small piece of newspaper base and wrote the words ‘ I love you very much ’ and passed it to Shwe Zin together with her change. Phyu Sin saw it, but knowingly turned a blind eye, a true friend indeed.

Phyu Sin said, “ We are resigning from The International Hotel next week and joining The Sedona from the beginning of next month. ”

“ Why’s the rush? Pay there much better? ” And placed himself on the wooden stool by their table.

Phyu Sin continued, “ To be honest, work will be the same and pay slightly better only. Terms, conditions and benefits are the same but it should give us better exposure and a new set of friends, if any. Anyway, its time we moved on. ”

“ As long as you both are happy, it’s all that matters. ”

That said, Ko Zaw Win hoped he would still continue to see Shwe Zin. The distance from The Sedona to his food outlet was only slightly more than before, a short few minutes extra walking than before from the bus stop. He has since grown his love for Shwe Zin and hoped she felt the same for him. The relationship must go on and he hoped that he would be able to voice his affections to her shortly.

One day they both turned up for their Kyee O (Brass Pot) religiously and Phyu Sin commented, “ The new job is fine, it’s a five star hotel and the rooms are more. As such our rotation and shifts maybe somewhat different at times, therefore our trips here together maybe less. We will make it together when our shifts are the same. Don’t worry we still like your establishment, support and continue to patronize we shall. ’’

He knew that Phyu Sin was just making an excuse so that her friend can see him freely alone and could read between the lines. What a person he thought, she must condone their togetherness. Ko Zaw Win now can appreciate their friendship for each other more. As Shwe Zin did not complain about his short note, Ko Zaw Win was sure that he was on the right track with her. No turning back now, press-on and full steam ahead.

“ I am sorry that your visits here together will be less, but I do understand your situations. With time, I have grown my appreciation for you both and please believe me when I say you both are more than customers to me. Today you girls are much, much more. ”

Phyu Sin smiled and said, “ I know that Ko Zaw Win, that’s why I am making this explanation. We both also are fond of you too. ”

The girls enjoyed their Kyee O (Brass Pot) and as usual shared a few jokes. He likes being together with them and wanted also to be with them outside the establishment. After the meal and a chat, he walked them to their bus stop and waited till they boarded, than back to work for the serious business of making money. Ko Zaw Win wondered what the future held in store for him.

Daw Hla (Madam Beautiful) said, “ According to the records, you both know the ropes so I will not go over it again. I’m the Supervisor of Housekeeping, as far as both of you are concerned I’m your boss and my words are law. Since the two of you were from Housekeeping of The International, do you want me to go over it again? ”

Phyu Sin said, “ All well understood and no need go over the dos and don’ts. Please be rest assured that no problems will be seen or heard from us. ”

“ Very well, your weekly roster will be posted in the Housekeeping store on each level, get cracking. ”

They both soon made new friends in the canteen and in the Housekeeping Department. The fellow workers did not ask them about their parents and they offered none. At least here, there were others they can talk to, than themselves. It was an improvement compared to working in The International Hotel. Visits together to Hot Pots still continued, but both together were sporadic due to the different rosters. Blessing in disguise thought Ko Zaw Win.

On the staff bus one late night during the ride home Shwe Zin said, “I have something important to tell you. ”

“  What is it Shwe Zin? Come out with it, no need anchor it in your mind. So, do tell me and don’t leave me in limbo? ”

“ Well Phyu Sin, to let the beans out, I’m in love with Ko Zaw Win and I think he is with me too. You are the only person that I told outside myself. I shall be most grateful for keeping it to you. Just don’t know what to do. ”

“ Oh, that, I’ve known it since he passed the small note together with your change about a year ago. It happens, nothing to be worried about. I think he’s a responsible person with a dedication to his job. He should be right for you ”

“ You knew? I suppose it’s an open secret. Just don’t tell Ko Zaw Win that you know. All right? ”

“ No problems, my lips are sealed, your secret is safe with me. “

They both laughed, while the staff bus continued the dive to their homes in the Police Line Quarters. Actually, Shwe Zin has been seeing Ko Zaw Win at every freeday she got off. They would meet at Botataung Pagoda and walk on the pontoons beside the Yangon River. Both give the Shwe Dagon Pagoda a wide berth as that being where most of Yangon public congregates. Their love for each other blossomed and she told him that her father was a policeman and he did not minded and joked that it was much safer for them. He being a male would try his luck where possible showering his love and affection, and she would allow almost everything, however when he tried to book a small motel for three hours she was against it.

“ I am an old fashioned girl and would like to treasure my virginity and reserve it till our big day. It means a lot to me and even though my body yearns like yourself, let us save it for that glorious day. It will be well worth the abstinent. ”

“ Shwe Zin I have no counter argument on that. I am but a simple man and want comes naturally. However, you win not that I agree though. It’s hard, but there you are. Let us leave it at that. ”

Ko Zaw Win believed that it was the opportune moment to pop the question. He said, “ Shwe Zin will you marry me? I shall cherish and care for you for always, through thick and thin.”

“ Thank you Ko Zaw Win for asking. You know I will accept you as my husband. By the way, I told Phyu Sin about us, but please do not act as though you are in the picture. Let sleeping dog lie as it were. ”

Hand in hand, the lovers walked in shine or rain as though the weather was not part of the picture. Ko Zaw Win would love to start a family of his own but he was not that financially sound. Best he could offer Shwe Zin was to share his present residence with his sister’s family of three. She also knew that sharing her present police line quarters with her family was impossible. She was in dilemma with no valid answers and prayed for a way out for her marriage to him work.

While sitting on the pontoon bollard under the setting sun catching the cool breeze of the late afternoon, Shwe Zin posed a question to Ko Zaw Win, “ Do you really think we can ever be married soon? I really want a place of our own in the long run or is the answer still elusive in the wind? ”

“ I think your question is a million dollar one. ‘ Soon ’ depends on which party wins the election in 2015 and whether the same folks are running the government. ”

“ What is it to do with our marriage? At least I know what to expect from the present guys and judging by today’s status, it can only get better and improve. I do not know what democracy means as all my life I have only known of them and brought up accordingly. Am I being naive?  ”

“ Well my darling, I think presently we are living in a fish tank Utopia similar to tadpoles in a buffalo foot step in the mudded rice fields, and we need a change to improve. ”

“ Ko Zaw Win I don’t quite understand, please explain? ”

“ It’s like this. You and me were born during their watch and have known nothing else. However, since I have been to Bangkok and Singapore and can now compare our lives under them. I am so sad for my country ”

“ That still does not explain my question and what do you mean by fish tank Utopia? ”

“ It means our eyes were kept shut and knew nothing else. Similar to living in a fish tank and unable to appreciate and compare what lies out there. We all live in a competitive world and alone we are not, I also wish to see my country prosper like our neighbors. At one time, Myanmar (Burma) was way ahead of Thailand or Singapore in terms of economy. Today we are at least 20 years behind them. It’s a real shame. ”

Shwe Zin said, “ What has it got to do with us? ”

“ It’s got everything to do with us. Let us dissect it logically. First our jobs, you are working as a housekeeper and I as a cook and nothing to do with the Degrees we got. Today we are grateful just to have a job, it should not be that way and we should be doing things, what we studied for and work in jobs we like or enjoy. Secondly I do not blame the employers, after all our University Degrees are not worthy to be gauged, be it in Asia nor for that matter in the world, where as for example University of Singapore is in the top twenty, world class tertiary educational institutions. Thirdly the disparities in salaries are great with a very small well to do class and a very large lowly paid working class population. Fourthly, which will answer your question, the government does not build homes for the masses to stay for starting a new life. In Singapore, 80 to 90 percent of their population stays in HDB (Housing Department Board) apartment estates built by the government. Today, our government does not build even enough for their own civil servants, don’t mention about the general population. Fifthly, they have a CPF (Central Provident Fund) to help the population with regard to health, insurance etc.  Our standard of living is so poor while the costs have gone up. Today we are so incomparable with some of our neighboring countries and I can go on and on.  ”

“ So Ko Zaw Win, what would you suggest? ”

“ My darling I wish to say that today our one vote is a valuable tool. Vote for someone from a party that will enhance you and the public at large. Do not waste it. Read, do your research, check their performance, a say only or a deed man and there are a million and one things you can do. We are now in an Internet age, browse, be skillful and be well informed. You are well educated and choose carefully. ”

“ I did not think of it that way before. Do you think my one vote can change? ”

“ A drop of water can make an ocean and a grain of sand can develop into a desert. So it surely can and should we exercise our rights carefully on a level playing field, we can start to water the land into a worthwhile Garden of Eden. Just don’t be content with life similar to ‘fish tank Utopia’. Remember we are not alone and need be compared with our neighbors. Should Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia and the likes can prosper, why not we?  ”

“ It is food for thought and I need to digest first. I do not believe in rushing into things, I thought long and hard about starting our relationship with you too.  ”

“ Good, do that. As for me, the current guys running the country are the same people as before with just a change of wears. True change is what we need and I intend to cast my vote to anybody other than them. After about 50 years, its time we have a change of guards. They have been at the helm twice more than my age. For your information one day at Hot Pots, I heard a businessman commenting on this to his friends.  ”

He continued and said, “ I prefer the present guys as my business can be safe and secure. Should there be a change, we may need to prove ourselves that we are worthy and I don’t want such a predicament, as we may not make it.  ”

As those were the thoughts of the small wealthier class, it was clear that they did not want their standings to be changed nor to prove their merits of worthiness, while the poor masses suffers silently, defenseless. In our land of today, the majority of very small rich class prefers the status quo, while the poor masses, which made up the majority large proportion wanted change for the betterment.

Ko Zaw Win cannot help think about the gold fish tank in his bedroom. He wondered whether his goldfishes were happy in the fish tank. If they have known nothing else what was there to complain? However should they have seen the rivers and the seas, their answers would be different to be sure. He has seen those rivers and seas, thus he feels change for the better needs be a must and fast. Myanmar has lagged so far behind economically, that something needs be addressed for the have-not masses. While he knows some issues were presently being tackled, it was much too late and insufficient. He does realize that it was better late than never, however it was overdue for a change of guards to dismantle their concrete school of thoughts and policies. He just hoped the general election in November 2015 was the correct and right answer.

He felt Shwe Zin is just continuing her existence similar to his gold fishes in the fish tank, just eating and living without much thought, and high time for a change. Phyu Sin meanwhile met a man from Sales Department of Sedona Hotel and thinks they are hand in hand on the long haul of life. He would be writing to his parents to make a trip down from Myitkyeenar soonest and pay a call to Shwe Zin’s parents in the Policemen Line Quarters near the Racecourse Road and ask for her hand in marriage to his. He felt this being the proper way to address and upholding the tradition. They will need to share the house in North Dagon with his sister’s family for the immediate time being, as it was large enough to co-exit without any congestion. This was a temporary measure till something develops with the new government in 2015 and positive economic changes may take change, he hoped. All wishful thinking at the moment and reality needs to be waited. After all, Rome was not built in a day.

Till then, Ko Zaw Win continues to toil as a cook at Hot Pots and Shwe Zin still cleans the hotel rooms and changes the bed linens and towels. Next year, Hot Pots should breakeven and hopefully on the way to healthier profits and she could stop work and be a proper housewife should she so wishes.

He will watch whether fish tank Utopia policies will change for the better. Without hope there can be no improvements. One thing was for sure, which ever party held the helm of our new government, unless the common man mundane needs be addressed and ensured, the men at the helm might be revised.  After all, our people eyes are no more shielded similar to fishes in a glassed tank and neither can be kept blindfolded either. They have seen the rivers and oceans and no stopping now.

It has been said that all good things come to who waits, so time should evidence whether correct or otherwise. About half a century was no mean feat and patience is running thin while still maintaining the order of the day. One thing is  for certain though, irreversible economic changes are starting to be sought. Better late than never for our people to be sure.

It’s been said that there is light at the end of the tunnel, wait and see we all shall.

Our Simple Thadingyut

As I opened my eyes, I noticed that this morning was somewhat different, and according to the grandfather clock of my neighbor, the chimes could be clearly made out as it reported it was only five in the morning. In my autumn years, one day and another was somewhat similar, no need to get up and make a rush for work to earn my keeps. Not that I was well of, but in my senior years, no one wish to accept my labors since same workmanship can be secured from a younger and stronger man. His hands would be more nibble, stronger and time taken to complete the woodwork job would be more faster too, it’s all a question of economics these days. As it was still dark, I blinked my gray eyes, rubbed it and rolled slowly and turned to the other side of our flimsy cane mat which served as our mattress on the floor, similar to myself, well weathered, smooth and maybe a shade past its usefulness and tried to touch the shoulder of my beloved wife and faithful partner for over forty years and noticed that my touch was cold and bare. However I did felt the coarse cotton blanket and her single make shift pillow of my old longyis, lovingly sewed together by her soft hands. Since she was not there, it looked as though she must be cooking the rice.

I raised the antique cotton mosquito net which was tied with available different colour strings to the four posts of the room, then put on my trusted army sweater that I bought three years back in Kalaw market to shield the morning cold temperatures, it was around ten degrees Centigrade and braved my way slowly to the kitchen. Under the glow of the burning wood stove, my pride and glory was crouched due to the cold weather, engrossed cooking the rice to be offered as ‘soon’ to our Lord Buddha.  I made my way to the toilet outside in the yard and by the time the business was done, dawn was just about to break. God, the weather was cold and shivered as I brushed my teeth and washed my face. The water from the old rusted diesel drum was liquid ice and we had no need for a freezer, not that we could afford it. There was no running electricity either, as this was a luxury at our age and just an added expense.

Slowly closing the kitchen door behind me, my old lady was not there any more. The rice pot was by the side of the kettle on the wood fire. It felt warmer inside, but was still cold with a few wooden planks missing due to old age like myself. I, U Thaw Kaung, had been meaning to replace the rotted pieces of wood, but the strength was unlike previously and the toll of age superseded my desires. Should it really becomes necessary and the push become a shove, I would turn my mind into action, until then why disturb a sleeping tiger was the thought.

The house was of wooden construction, built by U Thaw Kaung about thirty years ago when he was still strong, healthy and agile. It was a small three rooms construction consisting of a kitchen, bedroom and a utility room in a small compound of thirty by forty five feet on the outskirt of western Kalaw, before the mountain trek to a Gurkhr village. With the little money that he had and the donations from unused and excess planks of new house owners, the little dwelling was finalized. The roof was of corrugated galvanized iron, bought secondhand but still has life with a patch here and there. A healthy coat of paint and was as good as new with an extended life very much remaining.

I will never know how I managed to raise my boy and girl. It seemed a long time ago in another period, looking back those were the good old days.

Sensing my way to the utility room, I found the love of my life in front of the alter praying and giving homage to Lord Buddha with a token offering of steaming boiled plain rice on a saucer, accompanied with a single candle and a small vase of ‘Aung Tha Pyay’ fresh green stems from the plant in the compound. She chanted and prayed with her woolen socks neatly piled beside her. I also crouched beside her and paid homage to Lord Buddha while my wife chanted. She also must have been freezing, however as a sign of respect took her socks off. A very staunch Buddhist I must admit. After some time I stood beside our window which opened similar to shutters, supported by a make shift bamboo pole. Gazing out, it was a misty morning and I could hear monks chanting through the trees, coming somewhere from the neighborhood. I also saw Daw Kyi Hla with her grand daughter hurrying off to the morning market. Bamboo basket in hand, both of them tried to keep the cold at bay by brisk walking with their woolies on and steam puffing out of their mouths. The sparrows were tweeting and going about their business to find something to eat. It was a wonderful sight and could not have enough of it even though I have witnessed same from here for more than thirty years. The steamed beans seller balancing her load on her head advertised her wares at the top of her voice was all music to my ears and the sight was more beautiful than any paintings that I had seen, the view was well composed too.

After some time standing by the window and quietly appreciating the scenery, my beloved wife Ma Saw commented, “ Ko Thaw Kaung, do you know what day this is? ”

I replied, “ All I know this is a wonderful morning but a wee bit cold and not a black cloud in the sky. It’s going to be a fresh bright dry day.”

“ Well my dear husband, today is the first day of Thadingyut, seventh month of our Myanmar calendar and marks the end of our Buddhist lent. On the full moon day, Lord Buddha returned from heaven to our motal world after preaching Abhidmahha to his late mother Maya for three Lenten months, who passed away after seven days when Lord Buddha was born. This was a form of pay back gratitude from our Lord Buddha. ”

She continued, “ To mark this auspicious occasion, we also should brighten the night sky with ten oil lit lights in front of our house during this wonderful Thadingyut period and celebrate like true Buddhist disciples. ”

That said, his wife Ma Saw smiled and disappeared into the kitchen to continue her daily chores of cooking and preparing a small dish for the monks by ten. At nine thirty, both proceeded to the monastery taking the well-walked path from their small wooden house with the simple dish in hand. At the monastery, both took the five precepts given by the head monk. Feeling spiritually content, Ma Saw returned back to the house, that was only a short walk away. I, U Thaw Kaung meanwhile proceeded to ‘Hnee Phaya’, a Pagoda where he offered his physical work as donation and do anything the ‘Phaya Lugyi’ (Pagoda Elders) has to dish out. He was not the only one, there were quite a few of them looking after the up keep of the Pagoda. Young an old, all donating their physical hard work expecting nothing in return. This day lunch would be served by the Pagoda’s devotees, with a vegetable dish and rice, a welcoming meal to be sure at that.

After a delicious lunch and all the daily work were done, U Thaw Kaung took a leisurely walk back and he looked forward to seeing his wife, who was also his life. She was also graying in years like him, but to U Thaw Kaung she may no more posses the physical beauty of younger years, but she was still beautiful spiritually and in heart which value was paramount.

When U Thaw Kaung opened his cranky gate door, he was warmly greeted by Ma Hla Hla and Maung Kaung Kaung, his grand children by his only daughter Ma Lay. They may be seven and six years old, but seems tall for their ages and has been quite sometime since he saw them last. It was a most unexpected wonderful surprise as they now lives in Taunggyi.

As I walked flanked by my grand children with a beaming grin on the face into the house, I was further surprised and greeted by my elder son Maung Oo, who now lives in Yangon and works as a computer programmer. The situation overcame me, I cannot help but shed a few tears of joy being united again with the whole family. My better half Ma Saw also cried with happiness after seeing my tears. My son Maung Oo looked well, so also was my daughter and her husband with the kids. My children sent regular monthly money orders that kept me and my wife ticking in our autumn years. They have done their fair share and I could not ask for more.

Looking around, U Thaw Kaung noticed some new mats, pillows and blankets and he knows that it did not belong to him.

“ Where did these all come from? Looks rather new to me! ”

Ma Saw commented, “ It is on loan from the monastery and the head monk was kind enough to spare them for a few days while your children and grand children are here. ”

She continued, “ The grand children will kip with us while your daughter and son in-law and your son sleeps in the utility room. Is it not nice to be all together once again? ”

The children were here for three days of Thadingyut holidays. Ma Saw and their daughter Ma Lay already bought fresh vegetables, chicken and oil, thus the evening meal should be a feast.

Then their son Maung Oo said, “ Father, Mother, please sit here. We wish to pay homage to you both on this auspicious occasion. Ma Lay and myself are thankful  for making us what we are today. As a token of our gratitude, please accept Kyats 100,000/- from me and Kyats 50,000/- from my little sister Ma Lay plus two longyis and woolen sweaters for mother. The cakes, candles and vitamins should come in handy to you both. ”

Son and daughter including grand children and son in-law bowed and couched on the mat and paid respects to both of us. We blessed them all for long life, health and every success in all their endeavors. This was a wonderful surprise and for sure revitalized both of us. Ma Saw quickly kept some cash, cakes and vitamins aside to offer to the monks at the monastery following day. Even with the sunshine, the day was cool and dry. Whatever, it proved to be a day worth remembering and I am thankful for our blessed life.

After a hearty dinner, all together eating on the small wooden round table, sitting on the floor, it was most delicious and the united family was most encouraging. Under the glow of a single candlelight, we laughed and joked about old times and washed the food down with hot green tea. Once the meal was over, I went to the front of the house and put oil and a wick in the ten small clay light holders.  After lighting it, the small flames danced in the light breeze. The glows were strong enough not to burn another candle in our utility room.

My grand children asked, “ What’s the oil lamps for granddad? ”

“ Well it’s like this. When our Lord Buddha returned from heaven after preaching Abhidmahha to his mother, this world greeted him with lights to show the way in the dark of night. To mark this auspicious occasion, we continue to light the three days of Thadingyut.  Before, full moon and the day after.”

Kaung Kaung asked, “ Can we do that when we grow up? ”

“ Of course you all can. Thadingyut is an important auspicious occasion in our Myanmar Buddhist calendar. ”

U Thaw Kaung kissed his grand children on their cheeks and they continued play by the glow of the oil lamp lights in front of the house.

I joined the conversation in the utility room under the moonlight and the glow of the lamps in front.  Even though the temperature was falling, togetherness of the family kept us warm with hot green tea from the pot. This enjoyment was truly a pinnacle of happiness.

During this auspicious occasion, let us take stock of our lives and remember not to gaze upwards only and be well contented of the current status quo, as there are many, many more below, trying to make ends meet. Should we be down in the pits, endeavor we must, but not to feel sorry for ourselves.

What a Thadingyut !