Title : Thingyan (Myanmar New Year). My
Perspective.
Style : Short
Essay
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Our Golden Land as some would
author, has been shrouded by a wall of teak for nearly half a century and just
reopened its doors. As such the tourists and visitors alike, young and old in
their doves are flocking to discover one of the last virgin tropical paradises
in this world. Every country or land has its auspicious day(s), and Myanmar (Burma) is no exception to the
rule. Even though Myanmar is a
multi-religious country, 90% of its over 54 million population practices
Theravada Buddhism.
The origination of Thingyan can be traced back to ancient
India. Born out of Hindu myth, when King Sarka of Devas beheaded as agreed to
the looser King Arsi of the Brahmas after a battle and replaced it with a head
of an elephant, later to be known as Ganesha. It was said that if King Arsi's severed head
was thrown into the sea, it would dry up, if left on land, the earth would be
scorched, and if thrown into the air, it would turn in flames, thus it was
decided the head be carried by a princess devi and change turn yearly. From it,
the ritual of changing yearly was formalized and with time the washing away the
old year ceremony was born.
Thingyan in fact is a Burmese Buddhist holiday by any means and the
dates calculated by following the traditional Burmese lunisolar calendar. However,
today like many other things, it is followed and fixed according to Gregorian
calendar from April 13th to 16th or 17th
depending leap year or otherwise: as
such Thingyan or Myanmar New Year is
an important date and it’s festival second to none in our year’s calendar. One
would not be wrong to say that this is the time for the younger generation to
let their hair down as the saying goes. It also is the only gazetted public
holiday where all major offices and outlets are closed for a total of 10 days
continuous spread in the heat of full bloom summer.
The eve of Thingyan day is known as A-Kyo-Nai,
followed by A-Kya-Nai, A-Kyat-Nai, thence by Knit-San-Ta-Yet-Nai, meaning the new-year
day itself. In Myanmar calendar, this important festival falls in the first month
of Ta-Gu (April). Here, all education
establishments from junior to higher are closed for the summer holidays and
thus the children would have a field day and be out in force on the roads. Most
toddlers up to middle school children plays water around their houses or in
their areas utilizing bowls, cups, water hoses or make shift water pumps
avoiding monks, passerby in religious clad attires and uniformed personnel. They
all feel accomplished should the sprays be successful and the other person get
wet or drenched. Budding young teenagers, mostly girls to young ladies join
in the festive fun by being a paying member of a pandal or marquee, especially
built on slits of wood or bamboo for the occasion beside the roads, spraying
water jets from a commanding position with small plastic pipes pressurized via
portable water pumps from near by pond, lake or river. In Yangon (Rangoon), it is rather prevalent around the Royal and Inya
lakes. Chocker block cars, vans, trucks and what not, filled with people of all
ages laughing and singing, queuing for hours on end awaiting their turn to be
sprayed by the beauties on the pandals while passing all sort of remarks from
their vehicles. Some were nice, complementary, confronting, bad, sarcastic proposals and also
a few down right rude sentences. The fair ladies could thrash back or just
maintain their cool: this being Thingyan
and all comments are relaxed and permitted except down right dirty or otherwise
swearing words. The trick here is to keep out of the kitchen if you cannot
stand the heat.
I would be the first to admit
that this type of Thingyan
celebrations are somewhat well off the bull’s eye, but there you are, no
holding back the winds of change through the ages: Same sadly also can be
witnessed in Bangkok, and in some cities through out South East Asian Buddhist
countries. Some would don on loud clothes or minimum wears that does not leave much to immagination, mascara their faces and dye their
hair with strange styles to attract attention, not too a pretty sight in my opinion. Traditionally, water was put
in a silver bowl and sprinkled with the sprigs of Tha-Pyay (Jambul), quaint and rather touching. Fear not, all is not
lost, this scene can still be observed in the rural provinces. Take the Rakhine (Arakkan) State capital city of Sittwe (Akyab) for instance, water is stored
in a laung-hlay (traditional slim
boat) on table in front of a pandal, and people queue and take turn to sprinkle
the water from it gently onto the fair maidens standing behind the boat and they would
return the compliments, a far cry from the cities, nice though. During this period streets would
form teams offering moak-lone-yae-paw,
that is glutinous rice balls with bits of jaggery inside are thrown in boiling
water and when it resurfaces, taken out and served with a garnish of coconut
shavings on banana leaves to all passerby without discrimination as a charity deed. Yummy !
When the sun is no more, the mood
swings to songs and dances, stage shows, traditional and rock concerts,
entertainments galore, free of course and stalls catering all things consumable
by mouth and what not, merrymaking in general. At every street and quarters,
something exciting would be happening for the whole family to enjoy. Pagodas
would be well lighted, attended and offerings of candles and incense sticks to
Buddha made too. A well deserved rest before the next day of throwing and
spraying water yet again. Some years, there would be a shower during the Thingyan period and the Padauk (Pterocarpus) flowers would
blossom in full glory on the trees, proudly displaying its yellowish gold
colour and sweet smelling petals, a wonderful sight to be sure. Soon maidens
would be wearing onto their hair and offerings made to Buddha at shrines and
pagodas also.
Not forgetting our elders and
religious minded folks, they would be taking their eight precepts for the whole
period and on new year day itself, would be washing granddads and grandmas hair
plus trimming their nails, sharing good merits to the poor in their quarters, magnificent
deeds indeed. The younger generation would also visit the old timers and pay
obeisance to them, truly heart-warming touches. Some also would make a journey
to large lakes, rivers and streams to release fishes, as a gesture of saving
lives: young boys would enter monkhood for a short period of time and be
immersed in the teachings of Buddha called Dhamma. This ritual is somewhat also
akin to coming of age in some areas. All in all, a good fun time indeed.
Me? I’d be wearing something
light and loose with my cotton longyi (Burmese
bottom half attire), walk to the top of our lane and find a shady spot and sit
myself down by the kerb with a small cane fan in hand, just soaking in the wonderful
spectacle unfolding in front of my eyes and grinning from side to side.
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By/- Myo Thant
