Wednesday, 25 December 2024

A RUDIMENTARY SUBSISTENCE

  

Short Story:

A RUDIMENTARY  SUBSISTENCE 

 

Forward

The life of a bottom-tier Burmese labourer, going through its paces, focusing on the quiet struggle of survival. 

 

Scene A: The dawn of a modest beginning

Scene B: Seek and ye shall find

Scene C: Passage to an enigma

Scene D: Towards a new Dawn

Scene E: A Sicilian in Rome

Scene F: Hope

 

မြန်မာမှုဇာတ်ကြောင်းလေးကိုရပ်ဆိုင်း၍ တဖန်အင်္ဂလိပ်ဘာသာဖြင့်မြန်မာပုံပြင်လေး -
Scene A: The dawn of a modest beginning

Wearing a handed-down ex-army green cotton singlet and a faded longyi that had long seen better days, Cho Too looked up at the sky and cried out in anguish, “Lord, why have you forsaken me?”

Tears streamed down his prematurely lined face as he shook his head in despair. A man of modest means and little standing, he had been born into humble circumstances—and had never strayed far from them.

At the well-ripened age of 34—give or take a vague shrug and a questionable calendar—honestly, it’s more of a ballpark figure than a fact. My mother and I never really did birthdays; she always said they were just “rich men’s folly with frosting.”
So, exact dates? A wee bit fuzzy. Think of my age as more of an evaluation than an actual timestamp.

Our rickety home—a 10-by-10-foot, one-room shack cobbled together from bamboo matting with a roof of dried palm leaves—stood on the outskirts of western Magwe town, near the riverbank and just off the main road. We had plenty of fresh air—along with an unwelcome closeness to nature: cockroaches, rats, snakes, ants, and all manner of pests. During the cool season, it got surprisingly chilly, and mosquitoes were the least of our worries. As for a toilet? No problem—the Irrawaddy River was just a stone’s throw away, with a magnificent view to behold.

My mother worked tirelessly, seven days a week, as a helper to a cook—herself a daily-wage labourer—at a food stall in the central marketplace of Magwe, a small town nestled along the banks of the Irrawaddy River, not far from the ancient royal city of Mandalay. The stall’s leftover vegetables often helped stretch our meagre meals.
When she passed away—just a young lass of about 25 or 26, may God rest her soul—after a severe bout of flu, I was around nine years old: helpless, alone, and with no one to turn to.

As fate would have it, a passing Buddhist monk in his sixties took pity on me, seeing that I was a freshly orphaned child, too young to fend for myself. Through one of his devotees, he arranged the funeral and found me food and lodging in Rangoon. The monk, on his way to Mandalay to continue his religious studies at a teaching monastery university, was known by his monastic name, Shin Pandita—for his Ph.D., perhaps? God knows.

Fostered to a teashop owner along with others, I was employed as a waiter, helper, and general “odd-job” boy—all rolled into one. In return, I received food and shelter. The café fed and clothed me, providing two sets of second-hand nylon singlets and baggy midi-pants, which were expected to last at least another three years.
Open daily from six in the morning until the last customer left, the teashop became both my workplace and my home.

My sleeping quarters were makeshift: tea tables pushed together after closing time, shared with the rest of our eight-member gang, using spare longyis as pillows. Mosquitoes? What mosquitoes? Sleep came instantly and without qualifications.
The café—called a “tea shop” in Burmese—was named Moon’s Shadow.

It was a bare existence—character-building, as they say—but I had a roof over my head and wasn’t exactly starving. The teashop clung to life near Parami Railway Station in Mayangone Township, strategically wedged in a not-quite-bustling strip just before South Okkalapa. Some might call it suburbia; others might just squint and say “outskirts of Rangoon.”

I didn’t know when or where I was born, nor did I have a proper name, as such things were never discussed. As for my father—well, I never knew one, at least not that I can recall. The nickname Cho Too, lovingly given to me by my mother, stuck with me ever since.

I’m not illiterate. I can read and write, thanks to the free education I received at a monastery on the outskirts of Magwe, along the road to Mandalay, by the paddy fields, during my early years. I can read a newspaper just as well as the next man.
Sadly, that was the pinnacle of my academic education.

My existence followed a simple ritual: start work at 5:30 in the morning and continue till around midnight—with time for simple meals, a bit of play, sleep, and everything else in between. Bathing meant a bucket of cold “natural” water drawn from a well behind the teashop. Soap was carbolic, a common item shared by all, and it doubled as laundry detergent.
A toothbrush was simply our first finger, and our toothpaste was a mixture of powdered charcoal and ash from the outside kitchen—with the cook’s permission, of course.

We had one common toilet behind our compound—a deep pit in the ground, shielded by bamboo mesh for privacy and a plastic awning to keep out the weather. On average, the pit lasted about two to three years. When full, it was filled in with mother earth and a new one dug nearby—but not too close, to avoid the risk of collapse.
The digging? Free labour—courtesy of us kids.

Thoughts of joining a monastery did cross my mind. Even then, vacancies weren’t exactly abundant.
However, here at the teahouse, we had some connection to the outside world—of sorts. Local pop music blared from morning till night. There were more newspapers and magazines than one could absorb, and the television stayed on from opening to closing.
In a way, I was lucky.

Pocket money came once in a blue moon—during Thadingyut, the seventh month of the Myanmar calendar, marking the end of the Buddhist Sabbath, or Vassa. The Thadingyut Festival lasted three days. If there happened to be an all-night pwe(theatre), it meant a real treat for us boys.
The celebration spanned the day before the full moon, the full moon day itself (when Buddha is said to descend from heaven), and the day after.
Christmas? The teashop owner was a staunch Buddhist.

Households lit up with coloured lights after dark. People visited the Shwedagon Pagoda, paid respects to elders, wore their best attire, and enjoyed plenty of free food from neighbourhood stalls.
Since I didn’t have much to spend—no parents or relatives to send me money, nothing I wanted to buy, and no interest in fashion—I saved mine with my “bank”: the cashier.

The cashier was the owner's eldest daughter—a plump, spinster of a woman often seen with prayer beads in hand, quietly chanting, murmuring, or reading religious scriptures by the counter. In her fifties, with silver streaks at her temples, she was, like it or not, the closest thing I had to a mother.

Should the bad karma of sickness befall us, it was an hour’s walk to the nearest Yankin District Free Clinic—or about twenty minutes to the monastery’s free clinic, if it happened to be open.
Better still, as a first line of treatment, there was always a free consultation with the cashier, available 24/7—medicines included.
A spot of bright news: nobody had crossed over to the other side during my entire tenure. We were all vigorous, robust, strong young lads—whether due to resistance to illness, natural immunity, sheer protection, invulnerability, plain healthiness, or just dumb luck—who knows?

(To be continued on 18/09/25)

Scene B: Seek, and ye shall find

Over the course of two decades, I laboured in nearly every aspect of the tea shop—from waiting tables and assisting in the open-air kitchen to handling cleaning duties and stepping in wherever needed. Over time, I naturally assumed the role of head waiter, as most of my colleagues were young enough to be my sons or nephews. In this role, I took on responsibilities such as supervising junior staff, fostering a positive and disciplined work environment, and upholding a strong work ethic. I took pains in delivering exceptional customer service and consistently aimed to set a positive example for my younger colleagues.

One day, while waiting tables and providing service, I happened to overhear a group of four men discussing the latest agricultural techniques and cultivation methods at the Hlawga plantations

“They're really going big with it,” one of them remarked.
The middle-aged man with a crew cut, dressed in a blue sports shirt, nodded in agreement. “Big investors are involved. Long-term projects, to be sure."
Their energy and commitment struck a chord with me. It made me think—surely there must be many vegetable plantations in need of labourers. After all, Hlawga is the main supplier of vegetables and flowers to our city of Rangoon.

One slow business Monday, during a rare day off, I took an early bus ride to Hlawga, a nearby town in the Mingaladon District—just about an hour’s drive from ours. The bus made frequent stops to pick up commuters, giving me plenty of time to soak in the changing scenery from my window seat in the second last row. Beside me, an old Indian milkman in his dhoti dozed off, his metal milk can resting between his feet. As we neared Hlawga, the surroundings grew greener, with plantations and patches of cultivated land coming into view

By the time the bus wheezed into Hlawga, I’d already lost feeling in most of my limbs and any concept of personal space. I elbowed my way past a vibrant cross-section of humanity—young, old, wide, narrow with body odours galore—and made a beeline for the town’s main market tea shops. These places, as any seasoned wanderer will tell you, are the true beating hearts of local chatter and unapologetic people-watching.

There were plenty of options, but I went with the busiest one—always a good sign, or at least a guarantee of fresher samosas. It wasn’t quite as roomy as my usual haunt back home, but like any proper tea shop worth its weight in condensed milk, it oozed character (and possibly a bit of grease). I nestled in with a free pot of Burmese tea (because who says no to free tea?) and casually struck up a chat with the waitstaff, who were darting around with the efficiency of caffeinated ants. I was determined to dig up some local wisdom—or at the very least, some juicy gossip on lay of the land between refills.

“What a lovely place Hlawga is — no wonder everyone’s absolutely mad about it," I said with a smirk, inviting comments. The waiters and nearby patrons were more than happy to talk about their township. The young waiters, who couldn’t have been more than 12 or 13, beamed with pride and replied, “Yes, sir. Young and old alike enjoy it here.”

One of the patrons, a man in his 50’s, chimed in, “Here, the vegetables are always green and fresh. You must not be from around here.” I smiled and replied, “You’re so right, sir. I could tell from the cheerful faces—something you don’t often see in Rangoon. Sad isn’t it. We all had a moment of praise for the land, and after about half an hour, I excused myself. I then took a leisurely walk out of the town centre, around the agricultural zones. True enough, there were fields upon fields of watermelon plantations, rows upon rows of mango bushes waiting to grow to their full potential, as well as vegetable and floral gardens.

By then, it was around noon. Menacing rain clouds had cleared and the sun stood directly overhead, and the heat had become unbearable coupled with humidity for a hatless wanderer like me. Still, I braved on, drenched in sweat. Along the way, I made another stop—this time at a nearby teashop. Grateful for the shade, I rested my weary feet and requested for a cup of Burmese tea—a customary and freely offered refreshment, handed over without hesitation by the young waiters. Striking up a conversation about the lushness of the plantations, I found the locals wholeheartedly agreed with my observations. They added, however, that due to an acute labour shortage across the plantations, along with the prevailing economic situation, conditions could have been even better.

After a day toiling through due diligence and immersing myself in the area, I waited nearly an hour before finally catching a bus back to my sacred lodging, Moon’s Shadow—hoping to arrive just in time for dinner, if any remained. However traffic had other plans, and my hopes were dashed. Luck, it seemed, was elsewhere.

Thingyan, the water festival, was fun indeed. As per tradition, we poured water on each other, our patrons, and even passers-by. However, business at our tea shop was slow. With the national holiday stretching over several days, we saw minimal patronage. Young women in their soaked longyis presented a striking sight that didn’t go unnoticed by our curious, youthful eyes—mine included. Beyond the visual appeal, the coolness of the water soaking our clothes acted as a natural air conditioner, offering welcome relief from the heat. Still, too much exposure had its risks—moderation, as always, was key.

I was getting on to say the least. In truth, I had simply outgrown my 'shoes,' so to speak. After spending 20 or 21 years of my life there, I knew it was time to move on to greener pastures—preferably before I was shown the door. In this line of work, the tide tends to favour the younger crowd—especially when you're no longer one of the 'tea boys' embraced by the newer generation. I felt my usefulness and contributions had run their course; I was on my last legs. So, I made the decision to move on and seek more suitable employment elsewhere.

The tea shop had been kind to me in many ways; it was the only ‘real home’ I knew. Around the middle of the June-July wet season, I withdrew my savings held with my bank, the cashier. By that time, my stash of cash had blossomed into a sizeable amount—a few thousand Kyats. As I bided my farewells to everyone, the tea shop owner gave me a parting gift, and so did my ‘gang.’ My ‘mom,’ the cashier, holding back tears, handed me two thousand Kyats—a big windfall in those days. Altogether, I had nearly ten thousand Kyats in hard cash.

Cho Too bid “Adieu, sayonara, adios” to his gang and quickly exited the tea shop. At the entrance, my ‘mom’ handed me her blue-flowered brolly and said, “Please don’t forget to contact me if you ever need help or assistance.”

Having never received a formal education due to my humble beginnings, I knew it was time to spread my wings—whatever the outcome. As the saying goes, 'nothing ventured, nothing gained.' With hope in my heart, I prayed for a better life and resolved to leave my mark on this land. And so, with quiet courage, I stepped forward and took the leap—aiming for the best, yet prepared to face the worst—as I gambled boldly into a world far beyond my comprehension…..

Scene CPassage to an enigma


Clutching a white plastic supermarket bag in one hand—containing all my worldly possessions: savings, two longyis, and a sports shirt—and a lady’s umbrella in the other, I walked slowly through a drizzle that was swelling into a torrential downpour. I was making my way toward Parami Railway Station, just a few hundred steps away. Where was I going? I hadn’t the faintest idea.
I sat on the empty, wet, yellow plastic public seats beside the ticket office. The sky had shifted from overcast to a heavy, relentless rain—it was monsoon season, after all. Two trains passed: a few passengers got off, a handful got on.
Me? I had nowhere to go.
North? South? East? West? I hadn’t the slightest clue. My mind was in overdrive, weighing every option.
Back to Magwe? There’s no one there. And anyway, it’s been—what—over twenty years?
The monastery? Which one? I couldn’t even say. I’d lost touch with U Pandita, the monk who once arranged my lodgings in Rangoon. Was he even still alive?
Had I made a mistake leaving the Moon Shadow Teashop?
Out on Parami Main Road, the buses were jammed as usual—commuters clinging to bus steps, standing shoulder to shoulder, packed like sardines. Every one of them seemed to know exactly where they were going.
Meanwhile, the station master, a man in his mid-fifties, dressed in a starched white uniform, noticed me sitting there—alone, dejected—with a white plastic bag at my feet and a folded umbrella beside me. My head—much like the weather—hung low, propped up by my two hands. Smiling, he asked, “Where to, son?”
I looked up blankly. I had no destination in mind. Somehow, Hlawga surfaced—a name I’d once heard at the teashop—and I offered it as my answer.
The old station master smiled again. “By bus would be faster, but you'd have to walk to the junction of Parami Road and Kabar Aye Pagoda Road. That’s about a twenty-minute brisk walk from here. Still, since you’re already here—and with the heavens opening up—you can take the circular train to Danyingone. It’s due in about ten minutes. From there, transfer to the Pyay train. Hlawga should be three or four stops down the line.”
And so, I bought my ticket, thanked him kindly, and began a obscure, uncharted journey.
By early afternoon, with the skies still weeping without pause, I arrived at Hlawga Railway Station. I struck up a conversation with the station master—knowledgeable about his stations but clearly disinclined to stray beyond that subject. Sensing the limits of the exchange, I made a quick exit, following the “Way Out” signboard. At times like this, I couldn’t thank my ‘mom’ enough for the blue-flowered umbrella she’d given me. Determined not to draw attention to my circumstances, I kept a brisk pace toward the main road. In a small town, you don’t need a map to figure out that the main road eventually leads to the express highway. It was not rocket science.
As I approached the outskirts, plantations began to line the road, with scattered houses here and there. Like it or not, walking in any direction seemed to be the only scenario. By late afternoon, my eyes fell upon a monastery down a dirt road to the left of the highway. After about twenty minutes of walking, I spotted an old, paunchy man with thinning grey hair, slightly bald in the front, sitting on a bamboo bench. He was reciting Buddhist prayers from a worn, dog-eared book by a makeshift gatepost.
With anxious anticipation, I managed to squeeze out a few words.
“Sir, how might I secure a night’s rest at this monastery? I don’t have much money, but I’m willing to donate the few kyats I have.”
He paused his chanting and looked me squarely in the face.
“I’m only the cook,” he said. “You’ll have to make your case to the head monk—the Abbot—inside.”
He stood, and I followed him to a small wooden structure. Inside sat a monk in his usual saffron robes, cross-legged on the floor, writing something at a small, rickety desk—likely a donation from someone.
“Anything, U Kyauk Lone?” the old Abbot asked, addressing the cook, whose name roughly translates to "Mr. Round Rock."
As per tradition, we both knelt before the Sayadaw (Abbot). U Kyauk Lone said, “Sayadaw, this gentleman requests permission to stay one night at the monastery. He is willing to pay, if necessary.”
The Sayadaw turned his attention to me—I was soaked to the skin—and waited for my explanation.
I pleaded, “Sayadaw, may I humbly request a night’s rest at this monastery? I am but a poor man, yet willing to donate for my lodging if required. I am new to these parts, having just moved from Rangoon to try my luck. I am not fleeing the law, nor do I have a police record.”
The Sayadaw sat silently, deep in thought. After what felt like an eternity, he finally spoke.
“No, my son. We do not charge. This is a monastery—a place of refuge, not a lodging house. That said, you are welcome to shelter here for the night.” With his blessing, U Kyauk Lone led me to another small wooden structure where a few monks resided. We passed through the makeshift kitchen—an open, roofed area with pots, pans, and a small earthen stove.
“You may rest here,” said the cook, gesturing at the corner. “Sorry it’s not up to the standard of a lodging house—we’re just a poor monastery. Incidentally, you might want to take a stroll around the plantations. Try your luck.”
I laid my white plastic bag beside a pile of stove wood—the driest spot I could find. The ground was firm—good mother earth, damp but not soaked. Then, with my umbrella shielding me, I set out again. This time, I followed the red dirt road.
After about an hour, it narrowed into a track—just wide enough for four-legged companions to pass in single file. The path was muddy, strewn with debris. Further in, the view opened up to sweeping plantations. I was soaked, yes—but I felt a kind of freedom I’d never known. No job. An empty stomach roaring like a marching band. But I pressed on, step by step.
At what must have been the eighth plantation, I turned back—perhaps driven by the relentless rain. That’s when I noticed a figure near a fallen tree. Maybe a watchman. As I walked slowly toward a nearby bamboo hut, I spied a few older women—two, maybe three—along with some retired old men. Among them sat a teenager, merrily playing a bamboo flute beside his uncle, who was said to be down with a fever under a blanket.
Smiling, I tried to strike up a conversation.
“This monsoon is endless,” I said. “I wonder when it’ll end?”
Sick as he was, the uncle seemed to sense my true intention.
“Due to the economic downturn, most of the plantations have slowed down—if not stopped altogether,” he muttered.
For them, survival—bare and basic—was all that mattered.
By the time I plodded back to the monastery, night had fallen. I showered under the rickety drainage pipe jutting from the roof—still gushing, thanks to the rain. Out of habit, I washed my soaked clothes with a bar of soap, kindly offered by the cook. At least the body odour would be somewhat subdued. My towel was a spare longyi from my bag. After drying off, I changed into it.
Under the glow of a single candle in the outdoor kitchen, I found a bowl of semi-porridge resting on an extinguished clay stove. Still warm to the touch.
“It’s the best I could manage,” said U Kyauk Lone.
It was more of a thin gruel—rice, leftover dishes, and plenty of water—but to a hungry man, it was heaven.
Where I’d planned to sleep now had an ex-army groundsheet laid out. After the meal, I felt warm, full, and content. I laid down, resting my head on a few pieces of cooking wood. Sleep came instantly.
Before dawn the next morning, the monastery’s silence was broken by the sound of a hollow tree trunk being struck—nine times: thud, thud, thud. Some kind of alarm clock, I guessed. I rubbed my eyes. It was still pitch dark. Sitting up, I saw U Kyauk Lone already stirring a large pot of rice porridge for the monks.
I got up quickly to the sounds of pots and pans to help prepare the monks meagre breakfast. My own toilet affairs could wait.
By five, all the monks—perhaps four or five, including the Sayadaw—were already walking out in single file, each holding a black lacquered alms bowl. It was still dark; the first rays of sunlight had yet to appear.
Around six, dawn was well underway, and the birds were chirping as they went about their morning rituals. The monks had returned, and after washing and cleaning themselves, they gathered in the rickety wooden monastery to quietly eat their breakfast of rice porridge. Once the morning chores were completed, U Kyauk Lone offered me a bowl of leftover plain rice porridge. With something finally in my stomach, even the sound of the drums seemed to soften.

Scene D: Toward the New Dawn

 

Being monsoon season, the morning was still dull and wet, but I managed to make out a few things in the vague morning light. It was drizzling, so under the shelter of my mother’s blue-flowered umbrella, I made my way toward the National Express Highway No.1.

By the time I reached it, the morning had broken, though the occasional drops still fell here and there. This time, I took the dirt road on the right. There were no signboards, nor any signs of life along the way. I walked, enjoying the panorama but feeling apprehensive about finding some sort of work soon. There were plots of estates, plantations—many of them—and a few fish farms too. Regretfully, all were quiet, void of labourers and with no reason to make enquiries.

 

My eighth attempt brought me to a sizeable estate and plantation, with a few fish-spawning ponds, neat rows of white turnips, and bushes of sabae-jasmine flowers. The grounds were expansive, stretching far beyond what I could take in at once. I followed a soggy pathway that led to an old, crumbling wooden house. On the porch sat a woman in her sixties, holding a string of prayer beads and softly murmuring prayers. I approached and asked if she might be in need of a labourer. Before she could respond, three women—who appeared to be her daughters—emerged from the house. Standing in the drizzle beneath my blue-flowered umbrella, I repeated my inquiry.

 

The second youngest, her hair unkempt and attire careless, said, “We need a watchman for our estate and plantations. Our old watchman passed away a few weeks ago. Are you interested?”

My heart skipped a beat. Hiding my ecstatic, euphoric, jubilant feelings behind a straight facade, I replied, “I am.”

 

She then fired a barrage of questions while the others looked on accessing silently. Her final statement was:

“You will have to deposit your National Registration Card (NRC) with me. It will be returned when your employment ends. The salary is about 100 Kyats, depending on the number of days worked, and will be paid on the last day of each month.”

 

At this point, it’s high time mentioning how I secured my NRC.

A lifetime ago when I was around thirteen or fourteen, my ‘mom’ arranged with the district Immigration staff for all of us in our ‘gang’ at the tea shop to receive NRCs. The staff were regular patrons of Moon Shadow. Without such an identification card in Burma, one could not legally be recognized as a Burman, nor could secure employment or travel freely—it was that stringent and essential.

Two or three officials from the district immigration office came to our tea shop to help us. In front of a plain brick wall covered with a bedsheet, they took individual passport photographs and collected our biographical data. When it came to my turn, Cho Too was the only name I knew, so that became my official name. The place of birth was easy—I confidently said, “Magwe.”

When asked for my date of birth, I was blank. My ‘mom’ then stepped in and explained to the immigration staff that, as an orphan, knowing the exact date was difficult. She suggested 04.01.1968, in commemoration of Burmese Independence Day/Montth. This date was recorded accordingly.

A week or two later, the immigration staff returned with all our NRC cards. It was an important milestone that officially made me a Burman.

Back at the crumbling house, I felt like an accused standing before judge and jury—much like a scene from a Perry Mason episode—as the rest of the family continued to scrutinize every comment I made. She continued, “Since you will be working for us, please address my mother as A Phwar (grandma), my eldest sister as Daw Gyi (eldest aunty), me as Daw Latt (middle aunty), and my youngest sister as Daw Lay (youngest aunty). Understood?”

I nodded in agreement.

 

As Part Two, Daw Latt then continued launched into her precise cross-examination:
“We need to know everything about you—your trade, your most recent employment and reasons for leaving, your place of origin, current residence, whether you have a family, any health conditions, and whether you can read and write. In short, we want a complete picture of your background from the beginning. 

And still standing in the drizzle beneath the dull sky, sheltered by my mother’s blue-flowered umbrella, I presented my case to the best of my ability. After a few moments of silence—accompanied only by the sound of raindrops on my brolly, leaves dancing in the breeze, and crows crowing from treetops—Daw Latt finally commanded me to report for duty at 0800 hours the next day.

The case was adjourned.

That part completed, I journeyed back to the monastery. Each step felt heavy. I wondered how the cows and buffaloes trotted along this path so effortlessly—they seemed to enjoy this kind of weather. I certainly didn’t.

All told, my inquisition had spanned nearly the whole morning, and it was past noon by the time I entered the monastery grounds. The monks’ lunch—what we call soon—was already over. The drums in my belly had begun their roll, but I was just grateful to have landed a job; hunger could wait.

I headed straight for the Abbot’s shack. It was hastily constructed from all kinds of wood. There were no glass panes, just a wooden window propped open by a plank of bamboo, with no hinges to speak of. When he saw me, the first words he uttered were, “Hope it went well.”

I knelt before him and informed him that I had secured a job as an estate-plantation watchman, not too far from the monastery. He nodded, saying he knew the place. The old watchman, he mentioned, had died only a few weeks ago. He also said the “ladies” there were peaceful, fair, and just-minded folks. The plantation had been started by A Phwar’s husband donkey’s years ago. Like much of the community, they were struggling due to the economic downturn, but still surviving—making ends meet.

Due to my predicament, I requested an extra night’s stay, as the job would only commence the following morning. The Abbot gave his blessings and wished me well. I thanked him, got up, and walked over to the open kitchen, where U Kyauk Lone was attending to leftover food for the five mongrels—the four-legged guards of the monastery.

 

I regurgitated to the cook about my morning’s trials while helping him clean and wash the pots and pans. The washing-up soap was in a sorry state—a small, soggy lump, much like the weather outside. From the open space of the makeshift kitchen, I scooped a dollop of mud and used it as a Brillo pad, followed by some ash from the fireplace. This method I had learned by observing an Indian lady during my younger days while out on my bazaar duties. The pots turned out shining. I then applied just a little soap to remove the remaining oil and grease.

The balding, grey-haired U Kyauk Lone beamed with satisfaction and stacked the clean pots beside the fireplace. Then, with a glance of his eyes, he directed me to a small pot of rice and an earthenware bowl containing some leftover dishes. It was truly a joy to witness the modest spread. I relished the sight—my dry mouth and drumming stomach finally finding peace.

For the rest of the day, I swept and cleared away the soggy, dried leaves that had fallen into the small yard, taking advantage of a brief recess in the drizzle. After brooming the earthen floor of the small bamboo shack for the other monks, I rewarded myself with a well-earned rest by the kitchen entrance, which had no doors. There, for the first time in my adult adventure, my mind was at peace. With a full belly, sleep came without resistance.

When I opened the windows of my eyes, U Kyauk Lone was already preparing the outdoor kitchen for the next day’s cooking. Judging by the light, it was already late afternoon, and the sight of a simple bowl of plain rice porridge was truly appetising. Later, the cook gave me a general overview of Hhawga District, along with a brief history lesson about my soon-to-be boss’s social and economic background which was a repeat of the Abbot’s dialog. Meanwhile, my clothes had been washed, dried, and neatly folded on top of my white plastic shopping bag. With pots of Burmese tea between us, we talked into the night beside the makeshift kitchen, until sleep overtook us. I was a contented man.

All in all, those two days had been quite momentous. It hit me like a ton of bricks. Perusing job hunting had been extremely difficult—especially for someone like me, without any formal academic qualifications. On top of that, finding a roof over my head and keeping my stomach full was just as challenging. That was my first real experience of looking for a job—and it scared the hell out of me. Still, like everything in life, there was a silver lining. That terrifying episode taught me never to venture into anything again without serious thought and thorough preparation for the worst.

Luckily, I got off lightly this time with just bruises. Apart from spending a few kyats on train fare and going hungry a couple of meals, I was still standing.

Scene E: A Sicilian in Rome

 To me, monsoon simply meant endless rain—pouring cats and dogs in our neck of the woods, often with thunder, lightning, and strong winds from just after Thingyan until Thadinkyut, normally. That morning was no exception. It had been raining since before I left Rangoon. Beneath a dull, overcast sky, the rain poured as I crossed the express highway and turned right onto an unmarked dirt path.

I understood why the rice farmers, cows, and buffaloes welcomed the rain—but for me, it only made things harder. Each step forward felt like a struggle. Still, the prospect of a job lifted my heavy spirit—if only slightly.

After entry, I closed the rickety wooden gate, which was in desperate need of tender loving care (TLC), and silently prayed that the job would prove worthwhile. Whether a day labourer, plantation helper, or general worker, it didn’t matter—the main concern was earning an income. As I approached the crumbling house, the damn mongrel dog barked loudly, alerting its occupants. Daw Latt, my boss, emerged in her usual style—hair unkempt and clothes much in need of attention.

“So, you made it. I assume you have no living quarters,” she said without a smile. “You may stay in the small shed between the house and the gate. I’ll also give you some rice and fish paste. Okay?”

I nodded in agreement. She continued, “Get settled in, and I’ll walk you around our plantations in about an hour.” Then she disappeared back into the house.

Even though the shack’s frame was made of wood, some sides were patched with plywood planks of varying sizes, asbestos sheets, and mostly bamboo meshing. It seemed to be a construction of leftover materials. The size was roughly 10 feet by 6 feet—quite spacious for such a humble structure. However, it lacked windows, and the roof was made of dried palm leaves. There was no electric lighting, only a small kerosene lamp hanging beside the bamboo door. The floor was mother earth.

Inside, there were sacks of sawdust, some charcoal, and two or three sacks of sand. It was clear the shack had once served also as a storeroom. As for utensils, there was an earthen water container and a pot, a cracked mud stove, a porcelain mug, one wooden spoon, and a butter knife in a very sorry state—an item that had clearly seen better days. The furnishings were Spartan, with no bed, chair, or couch. It was evident the previous occupant used the sawdust bags as bedding and wasn’t very fond of cooking.

For me, no complaints—at least it was a place to rest my body, dry and with a roof overhead. The toilet was about ten yards away: the usual hole in the ground, surrounded by some bamboo meshing for privacy but bare of any roofing. The well was close to the house, and water was abundant . I tried to make the shack as comfortable as possible, placing my white plastic shopping bag atop the sawdust bags to serve as a pillow. A clock? What clock? Mine was the nature clock—free of charge and maintenance.

Daw Latt came bearing gifts—small paper bags filled with rice and fish paste, a mighty generous gesture. She was dry beneath the shelter of a wide, ‘Turkey Brand’ umbrella made in Burma. The cover was crafted from durable black cloth, the stem was wooden, and the spokes were iron—not the modern aluminium type. It may have been heavy, but it served its purpose perfectly during our Burmese monsoon.

Daw Latt took the lead, and I followed close behind, seeking shelter under my ladies brolly. She was a talking machine, a nonstop gramophone, and I gave her, my boss, my undivided attention, not letting a single word slip through the other ear. Their land was vast, boasting several watermelon plots, acres of ‘sabae jasmine’ and white turnips, stretches of ‘chinbaung-roselle,’ and mango trees. There were four or five fish farms and a few buffalos enjoying their daily dips in ponds that, I believe, produced milk.

Daw Latt accepted the mud and sogginess as a fact of life. Me, being from Rangoon—a city boy—found it hard to come to terms with. Still, she walked and talked, talked and walked. It must have taken a good three to four hours. She said the tour was just a ‘gist’; their estate was massive, to say the least.

On the return tour, she was quite dry except for her feet, whereas my head remained reasonably ‘unwet’ but the rest of me was soaked to the skin.

Daw Latt concluded, “While I appreciate that it’s impossible to oversee the estate in totality, keep an eye out—we don’t want any poachers, freeloaders, or that sort. You know what I mean. In a week or two, you’ll get the hang of it.”

With that, she turned her back and proceeded toward their crumbling residence.

She handed me a hundred Kyats as an advance to stock whatever was needed, to be settled at the end of the month with my salary. How was I going to survive? These are hard times—what else could I do? The future is full of pressing unknowns, but at least I am still alive.

Each time I went to do my number two, I was grateful to my ‘mom’ for her flowery folding umbrella, which I sheltered under whenever the weather called for it. Meanwhile, I decided to divide the estate into seven sections, planning to patrol each sector daily. I just prayed no serious issues would arise that might lead to my dismissal.

To be honest, the sawdust bags weren’t very comfortable. My immediate priority was to buy a new pair of rubber slippers since the soles of my old ones were completely worn out. On my first Sunday outing, I made my way to the central market near Hlawga Railway Station. There, I purchased the new slippers and wore them right away.

I also bought brown rice—the cheapest available—along with Burmese tea, dried beans, half a bottle of vegetable oil, curry and chili powders, some much-needed fish paste, kerosene oil, and a packet of candles. I had to advance the money from my savings, hoping to replenish it by the end of the month. For the time being, there was no remedy for my sawdust bed.

I enjoyed my security walks around the plantations, especially when some labourers kindly donated small quantities of vegetables, which greatly supplemented my meals. Depending on the amount, some of these gifts lasted me three to four days. After about a week, the job didn’t seem too bad. There were unexpected perks—free vegetables and fruits, occasional fish from their farms, and on rare occasions, milk if there was any unsold, as it wouldn’t last overnight and would spoil quickly. To me, nothing ever went to waste: sour milk turned into yogurt, and stale vegetables became fermented delicacies.

Before long, I began to recognize the estate workers and labourers, and they all came to know me as “young Cho Too, the watchman.” One early morning, I spotted a young female fishmonger balancing a tray of fish on her head as she took a shortcut through our estate land on her way to the market. She was quite attractive, but since she meant no harm, I chose to say nothing.

The lady bosses of our estate may not have been wealthy—comfortable is the word I prefer. They mostly kept to themselves, but would regularly donate to the nearby Buddhist monastery, not in cash, but in the form of goods from the estate. I knew this well, as one of my chores was to deliver these donated items to the monastery's cook, U Kyauk Lone.

Another of my tasks was to collect sawdust from nearby sawmills every fortnight—free of charge, of course. Over time, I came to understand the household hierarchy: Daw Latt was the cook of the family, but more than that—she managed the household and spoke on behalf of everyone. Daw Gyi handled the accounts. A Phwa was the spritual anchor, holding the family—more precisely, the daughters—together. Daw Lay, the youngest, played more of an advisory role and helped out with odd jobs when needed.

As the wet season gave way to the cool season, I found myself especially grateful for the bags of sawdust. My modest shack, at the mercy of the weather, could get bone-chillingly cold. But the sawdust helped—it kept me warm and dry. The reason for collecting it, however, wasn’t just my comfort. Daw Latt used a mixture of charcoal and sawdust for cooking, a practical and economical method. After all, sawdust didn’t cost a thing.

Bit by bit, I was growing accustomed to this life—for better or for worse.

Scene F: Hope

The dry season was oppressively hot, with humidity often reaching 80–90%, making the heat feel twice as intense and sticky. Work became doubly exhausting. One longed for a cool breeze, though such relief was rare. I couldn’t sleep in my windowless shack, and sleeping outside turned me into a gourmet meal for thousands of mosquitoes. My only consolation was lying under a mosquito net, fanning myself with a bamboo hand fan until sleep finally came.

The Water Festival was a festival in name only—everything remained bone dry. The estate was deserted; not a soul in sight. The relentless sun blazed from morning until night, making the days nearly unbearable. Shade under a tree, a bamboo fan in hand, and a pot of Burmese tea became essential comforts. Everyone prayed for rain, but the sky gave no sign of mercy.

One day after the so-called Water Festival, four men appeared outside the rickety wooden gate. As the watchman, it was my job to enquire about their purpose. They claimed to be carpenters, so I guided them to Daw Latt, my boss. They seemed to have chatted for about two hours, occasionally pausing to survey the crumbling wooden building. My acquaintance the “dog” could not care two hoots about the carpenters.

About a week later, the same four men returned early in the morning. Behind them were two bullock carts loaded with dry palm leaves and bamboo poles. The first day was spent mainly unloading the materials and storing them under the shade of a banyan tree.

The following day, they discussed among themselves and selected a clearing where they erected a large, wall-less shed. Eight main bamboo poles were reinforced with smaller ones, and dried palm leaves were used to create an awning. A temporary shed—completed in just one day.

The next morning, the same four carpenters and Daw Latt circled the crumbling wooden house, pointing here, there, and everywhere. They must have gone around it more than eight times—after which I lost count. In any case, it was well beyond my pay grade. I simply kept company with my trusty bamboo broom, making sure the pathways were swept clean, free of dried leaves, debris and presentable for my employers.

Around noon, the carpenters paused for lunch. Beneath their newly hoisted shed, they sat on the ground with their tiffin containers, enjoying their meals. Laughing and chatting, they filled their bellies. I walked over and offered them a hot pot of freshly brewed Burmese tea. Since I had no glasses, they used their empty tiffin cans as makeshift cups and thanked me warmly for the gesture.

Their survey continued through the afternoon—this time without Daw Latt. Just before sunset, they called it a day, leaving their tools in my shed and made their way home.

The renovation was a major one. I wondered whether it would last the entire hot-weather season. With only a crew of four, it didn’t take rocket science to estimate the schedule.

After some time, the carpenters and I began sharing lunch together under their make-shift shed, eating from their tiffin containers. We’d strike up conversations during their afternoon tea breaks too.

One day, I mentioned, “A young fishmonger lady crosses the estate grounds every morning on her way to the market, and again just before noon on her way home when the market closes.”

One of the carpenters, a man in his late fifties, replied, “That would be my niece, Ma Chaw. She’s one of the breadwinners in our large family. A good girl—works hard and never complains.”

In my mind, I thought: I’d like to know her better.

“Back to work, comrades!” the head carpenter barked.

While the renovation work continued, I collected the leftover bits, pieces, and unwanted wood, piling them up for potential future use. My daily rituals carried on as usual. Due to the heat, the most pleasant time of day was pre-dawn, when both the temperature and humidity were at their lowest. I eagerly looked forward to catching sight of Ma Chaw on her way to the market, balancing a tray full of fish from the ponds to sell.

I enjoyed her company immensely. Her optimistic outlook on life never failed to amaze me, and I would happily accompany her until she stepped outside the estate grounds. The same ritual repeated on her return, as she made her short-cut way back home through our estate. That was my priority. Her outspoken nature made her fun to be around.

Then one hot morning, during our usual walk back through the estate, she suddenly turned to me and asked, “Are you making a pass at me?”

Caught completely off guard and at a loss for words, I responded with nothing more than a Mona Lisa smile. For once, she walked the rest of the way deep in thought, unusually silent.

I performed my daily routines with diligence. However, the thought of Ma Chaw lingered within me. I was a labourer—no longer young, and with no qualifications to speak of.

On my fortnightly pilgrimage to the nearby monastery, I sought the wisdom of U Kyauk Lone, the cook and my learned friend. I opened my heart to him. U Kyauk Lone listened with undivided attention, and when I finished my monologue, he said:

“Matters of the heart are delicate and complicated,” he commented thoughtfully. “There are no absolute rights or wrongs. However, your decision must be resolute. One thing is certain—a woman will weigh her options. One of them is judging whether you are man enough to undertake this monumental task, and to consider the likely outcome of such a union.”

I thanked U Kyauk Lone, paid my respects to the head monk, and walked back deep in thought.

I am a nobody—no spring chicken either—well passed the expiry date with nothing to offer. So how was I to woo Ma Chaw?
A million-dollar question, to be sure, but I had no dollars.
I  decided  to keep my distance. If she had even a little interest in me, I hoped she would sig- nal some kind of hint. At least, that was what I was hoping for.

Deep  in  thought, I  buried  myself  in  work. The renovations took more than a month, and I still donated Burmese tea to the carpenters—the least I could do.
I watched them go about their tasks and asked questions when something piqued my interest.
 There was so much to learn about wood: teak, hardwood, plywood, softwood, jungle wood—they all had their uses.

“Does Ma Chaw still strike up a conversation with you?” U Lwin, one of the carpenters, enquired out of the blue.

“Maybe a few times,” with a non-committal response I replied.

“Ma Chaw is of age, but her fiery speech and temper tend to put men off,” U Lwin said as he worked on the wooden frames for the windows.

I was not born of wedlock, want or need, but merely as a biological consequence. Now I wander the earth—a lost soul, existing in name only, uneducated, penniless and forgotten. No one would care, not even give two hoots; my absence would pass unnoticed. How, then, can I win Ma Chaw? Much food for thought to be sure.

I responded with my usual 'Mona Lisa' smile.

It seemed U Lwin  had no negative comments for my part. At least there was hope. I’d need to work on that!


 

 

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