Rangoon street games in the Fifties

Today, we do not see much games being played in our local streets. It’s good from a safety point of view. Games are now played in the safety of playgrounds and parks, where there is more room for the growing limbs, and also does not hamper the pedestrians and rolling traffic. From what I noticed, football, kite flying, disc throwers, cricket and joggers can be seen quite frequently. For more serious players to any game, they would resort to specific arenas, courts, grounds and gymnasiums, tailor made designed for football, netball, basket ball, tennis, badminton, table tennis, rugby and many, many more. Children also can swing, slide, jump, hang loose, hop and run around safely in their own designated playgrounds. No matter where the country might be, special spaces are allocated for sports enthusiasts. All very nice and proper, and the enjoyment and safety are always at the forefront. In Singapore, Housing Board void decks, there are places for senior citizens to play checkers, board games or just sit around and talk the day away. In many European, American and Asian countries, the local library, common meeting places, town halls and designated places are reserved for the very young to the senior citizens’ enjoyment, games, sports and leisure activities too. The parents, brothers, sisters, uncles, aunties, grand parents and also friends need not worry for the safety of their love ones anymore, all will be out of harms way. Even in Yangon of today, local authorities and private developers pays special attention to the recreational needs of all citizens. None are left behind. Such are the times.

Fifty or sixty years ago in Rangoon, such luxuries did not exist. The playgrounds were the streets, roads and platforms if there are any. Sometimes, they even close the street or road and play the game on their menu of the day. Pedestrians need apply their commando training experience to avoid the players and their ball, to get past the road. Automobiles drove at a slow pace, and preference was given to the players, their ball and pedestrians alike. It was a booby trap course, you have to pass and make it safely to the end of the road. No certificates were awarded at the end. But should your car make it without sustaining any damages, this was enough reward. Spectators and supporters would watch from front of their homes or verandas and knows the players by name and whose sons and daughters they are, and which apartment they reside in. The road or street becomes their private property early in the mornings, evenings and weekends too. Various endeavors, all in their bare feet, were a feast to be watched in awe.

The game of football was universal in most streets. They played with a small rubber or plastic ball, but most of time it was a worn down tennis ball that would suffice. I have not heard of any damage sustained to people, their properties or traveling vehicles. There might have been cases where their ball hit something or someone, but the damage was negligible or too minor to be worth mentioning. The football field was the road including all walking spaces and the boundaries were the side gutters. Should the ball drop into the gutter, it’s out. However, rolling into apartment stairways or hall areas was considered part of the playing field and play would continue. I remember once, the ball rolled into Daw Ohn Sine’s front door and she never gave it back. The game was then regretfully concluded and the match was determined to be a draw. The spectators from the apartments smiled and then retreated back in. The game of football does not fall into category of seasonal games and was played anytime of the year and need not be eleven players on each side. It was played even with much less participants. Should there be only two or three players, they would resort to having only one goal and take turns to be the keeper.  When playing with two teams, one team would be bare-chested, and the two goal posts will be demarcated by pile of slippers on the roadway. If less, it could either be two bricks, someone’s garage door, a slipper on each side or any type of marking that was available at that moment in time. We tend to see more football being played in our streets during the rainy season, maybe one, due to being cooler, two, wetness improves the legs, and three, a free bath coupled with fun. Just joking, I really do not know why we see more football in our streets during the monsoon season. This game of street football has no age restrictions. I saw it being played by children, young kids, teenagers and even grown men joining in the fun. In Yangon, we believe bathing in a downpour of rain cures hot rash spots, it really does in my case, and generally cools down the hot sweaty weather also. The rains are a welcome not only to the farmers, but also to street dwellers as air-conditioning was very, very rare for us street folks.

During the dry spells, especially on long school breaks, we also sight young girls playing htoke see toe, a Burmese game, where one team, five members on each side, tries to pass the other team’s girl guarding her line and to reach pass the last box line. Should they able to touch your body while you cross their guarded line, you are out. Boys also do join in the fun, but rather rare and mainly played by the fairer sex. Their boxes or lines they were guarding are drawn by sticks marking the ground, or at times drawn by a piece of broken brick used as chalk on the road. The lamppost lights and the moon provide enough lighting for the game. I have seen them use water to draw the box lines also. Funny though, once they enter womanhood, with slight bumps on their chest, they tend to shy away from the game and stay mainly indoors, except for school, marketing or going out and refrained further from joining street games. I wonder why? Like street football spectators, from the apartments some would stick out their heads or support their teams standing on their verandas. Win or loose, would be smiles all around. Such were the fun in the streets. These games would continue late into the night, till temperature are cool enough to lay our heads on the pillows inside the mosquito nets.

Grown men also would also step on to the street and play their game of Chinlone (cane ball). It is not a comparative sport, but rather a game of control of cane ball by the use of the legs, heel, toes, knees, head and body except hands, played by six men or in case of our street, maybe less. Chinlone is more of an art and a dance where players stand in a circle and show off their beautiful ball control in coordination among the players. It is usually one touch and passed on to any player in the circle. It is said this game was played since the year 1208 and once played by Burmese royalty too.  We do not see our young sisters playing this ancient sport in the streets, but I understand they do play at the national level. Strange, is it not? They deploy a small cane, rubber or plastic ball, and maybe even a worn out tennis ball, depending on what they have. No uniforms are required and their longyi can be tugged at the back, so as not to hamper the free movement of the legs and be transformed into a sportswear. Some would play in their shorts, it’s up to the individual and what would put them at ease. It was usually played bare feet and the period of play depends on how long the team wishes to play. In short, no set timings. People, young and old would watch and appreciate with delight on their various moves.  Chinlone is more of a recreational game enjoyed throughout the year when people can spare the time, however it is a sport at the national level also.

Badminton was also played in any clearing without the need for a net. It was not competed and just played as a recreational pastime, mostly by girls and their grown ups. The racquets are of a simple type and in no way of a professional design.  It was played in the dry spells, in the early evenings, after or before the dinner. Girls would come out with their Thanakha on their faces and their hair done up nice. Those were the days when girls would apply coconut oil in their hair to make it shiny and well groomed. Men and boys at times would do the same, but the practice is disappearing. There were more serious Badminton tournaments, but they take place in specially designed courts, if the street has one.

Another street game, which was viewed with sheer enjoyment, is similar to hide and seek of today. The group of boys and girls would bring an empty used condensed milk container, and fill it with a few stones and squeeze the opening side shut so that it becomes a makeshift bell. They would draw a circle about 4/5 feet in diameter by broken brick or a stick to mark the ground and someone with a strong arm throws it out far, while all would go and hide. The seeker would collect the makeshift bell and place it back in the circle and seek for the players hiding. Should they be discovered, the seeker would sound the bell in the circle and shout out their name and place of hiding. The purpose of the game was to kick out the makeshift bell from the circle while the seeker was out searching for the hiders. Should they succeed, the game was replayed again.  If not, the game continues until the last player was discovered, thence the first caught becomes the seeker and a new game commences. This type of game was usually played during long school holidays in the months of the dry spells. While the game can be played during the day, the enjoyment was maximized during the evenings, under the light of lampposts and the moon natural cool rays.  At times, the audience from their door fronts, through the windows or from their verandas would shout out a hint, or show with their eyes, and at the worst, point out their hint with the finger to the seeker. After the game, the participants would debate to the fairness of their discovery while the onlookers would smile and make their own private comments. Those were the days without the wonders of television and I suppose gazing into the street was a favorite pastime for many a household. Besides, it was too hot and stuffy to remain inside except when one has chores to be attended. Together they would pass the evening till cool enough for sleep.

A favorite pastime among the boys was a game called Rounders, an old English game originated in 1500s, also called Roundus on the island of Monserrat. There are two competing teams between 5 ~ 15 players on each side. It was quite similar to baseball, except the game was played with a tennis ball and each round consist of four posts to be completed to be considered a round. The bowler or feeder bowls the ball from under his arm in a pendulum motion, and the striker was allowed three chances, after that he’s out. The striker bat was usually a bamboo stem, cut off from an old coerce yard broom handle by an understanding citizen from the road or street. The playing arena was the street itself, and just pray the ball you hit does not enter any apartments or damage windowpanes. The game was played at anytime of the year, however, street football takes precedence, which was the priority by all concerned. The game was played daytime, afternoon or night depending on demand consensus by the children. Any game on the street was well supported by its inhabitants, and never did lack an audience.

A rather unique street game imported from around the region was flying fighting kites. This game can be found from Afghanistan in the west, up to Japan in the east. Some can be found in the United States and also in the slums of Brazil. Maybe, some variations here and there, but basically flying kites are the same. The main idea was to fly the kite and combat with another and cut the other flying kite line and be king of the sky. It takes a good control of the single line and understood well the dancings of the wind, and how kites reacted in an aerobatic fight. All kites are different and one must learn quickly the different characteristics. This is an art and science mingled together. In Burma, it is usually played by young boys to men, some as old as sixty can be seen engrossed in the skill of kite fighting. To give slack while the kite climbs or dive down onto the adversary and pick up the slack on the yit lone. Very technical indeed and discussing its merits long after the combat. The kite is made of a light thin wax paper with two thin bamboo sticks and glue, the shape is of a triangle and size is about 14 inches. Some do make it at home out of an old newspaper, but it does not look so pretty. The three ingredients for flying a fighting kite are, one, a kite, two, cotton or nylon tread size 08 to 20, and three, a yit lone (round wheel), that’s it. The thread was laced with fine powdered glass and glue of rice, flour, semolina or other glues of your choice. Some would add colour to be distinct. The special thread can be bought or made by oneself to our own specification and satisfaction. Once that done, it was run onto the yit lone, ready for the fight. The main thing was to make the thread coerce and abrasive with a lace of your concoction of glass, old bulbs or some sharp material powder, to be able to cut the other kite’s thread. The battle was done 200 to 1000 feet above in the sky. One flies the kite from a rooftop or from a street level where the kite able to catch the wind. Once flown, we wait for an adversary or we become the challenger. The theater of war was the open sky and all eyes were glued to the combat. We had to be careful of our fingers as the kite line can easily cut us while flying.  The yit lone can be bought in the market or make it at home, if we had the tools and materials. The real and professional yit lone was around 12 inches in diameter and its breath was about 4 to 5 inches. The choice depends on our level of comfort.

Fighting Kite flying was done just after the rains and before the cool season sets in. The months from September to November are dotted with kites waiting for a fight, somewhat like a fighter aircraft or gunslinger waiting for a draw. Once the fight was over and one kite lost, it becomes another game. This was where most of the accidents occurred. The boys would chase after the lost kite by poles, long sticks and branches, even though it may be worth only a few cents. The posse would give chaste without giving thought that they are on the roads and prone to being hit by traveling automobiles. Accidents could mean mane or loss of limbs and in worst case, result in loss of life. But the glory of seizing a lost kite meant more until faced by an accident. Chasing kites sometime leads to fights as on finder keepers basis and the result could mean a torn useless and worthless kite. I am sad to admit that I was one of the posses, but lucky enough not to have sustained any damage, and no battle scars to show for. Such were the thinking of the boys and the sweetness and glory of seizing a fighting kite seemed the world.

Yet another imported leisure activity was gaming tops, it came across from the India and Pakistan. The tops are made of wood and a pointed nail to get to the center, and a string to start the spin. The game was started by doing a Toss, that is spinning a top all together at the same time and picking it up, the last boy to do so, losses and has to place his top in the center of the circle, which was about 3/4 feet drawn by a pointed nail of the top on the ground. The other players are to hit and tear a chunk from the lying top in the middle, while trying also to get a spin too. If successful, it’s known as a chicken leg, the reason was quite obvious. Should the lying top be out of the circle, one must get a spin of one’s own gaming top and pick it up with the string and shout out ‘soe’, to mean completed. The last person to do so must place his top in the circle. There are a few variations of spinning a gaming top, which are designated for females and males. Some can even whip and flip the string and have the top spinning on one’s palm and picking it up from ground onto the palm while continuing the spin. All rather skillful, indeed. Some boys were rich and could afford two gaming tops, one for if it’s their turn to be placed in the middle of the circle, and one for their personal spinning. I could only afford one, as my pocket money financial situation does not call for buying two. Believe in India it’s called Bambaram, Bongalaru Anta or Lattu, depending on which part of India the game was being played. Some believe, the gaming tops days are numbered due to being considered unsafe and its sharp pin hazardous, as there are a lot more games in lieu. Having said that, I can still witness a few games here and there in the inner city streets of Yangon (Rangoon). This is not a game for softies, as it can be rather cruel, especially when their gaming tops tear a chunk out of your top lying in the middle, the pain was felt right up in the heart too, like a piece of your leg being torn off.

There were other games such as marbles, not seen in Europe or America, played with one large marble by each player and three small shallow holes on the ground. Player numbers were not restricted, and the game was to complete ten holes, while knocking the other marbles to kingdom come, so that competition was kept at bay. This game was played during the rainy season, up to the beginning of the cool season in November. The holes on the ground were dug with heels should it be soft enough, otherwise, it’s our good old fingers to do the work. The streets and roads do hold danger to its own inhabitants, when playing bare feet. The tar road surface can cause cuts and the sharp stones can also open up a bare sole. The first aid was to wash it off by the street tap and tie it up with an old piece of cloth from the neighbours or place a band-aid if they can find one. That was it and no one lost a limb or suffered infections like today, where AIDS, tetanus and god knows what is ever present and fearful. It just shows how contaminated our earth is today.

Many, many more games existed that I could not do justice, such as playing with rubber bands of different colours, girls doing their high jumps with fingers as a pole, hopping on one foot, girls squatting and competing on haggling like a chicken called kyet tike ka, boys shooting competition with their small catapults with dried prune seeds, a ball game called king, setting off crackers during Thadinkyut, too numerous that some I do not even know of. Children from well to do families would step down from their castles and also join in the fun, as no such street games exist where they lived. Their compounds and houses are so far apart, that the streets or roads are dry of inhabitants. In our downtown streets, it’s part and parcel of every day life. It sure was fun.

As I stood by the shade of a guava tree, I realized that such street scenes are quickly disappearing. For the better I suppose. The councils are drawing plans to build tower blocks and the developers are eying to build a string of buildings with a compound to call its own. Times they are a changing, for sure. I suppose its all for the best, better living apartments and safety for all, from the very young to senior citizens. I do hope the new constructions will create the same camaraderie we had witnessed in the inner city streets which all can still play together, enjoy and laugh instead of creating castles where no household can be bothered about anyone else.

For the last time with much sadness, I viewed the street scenery so that I will remember and can reminisce to tell my grand children and friends. There were kids from Daw Saw Pu house, boarding their school bus. I could hear some children reciting their five precepts also. U Hla Pe, now grey and old like me, sitting in front of no.23 Flat C in his easy chair, counting beads while chanting scriptures by the look of his lips and my, my, how Ma Thida has grown. She must be in her twenties, in her green longyi of school uniform plus a Tiffin box wrapped in a serviette tugged in her bamboo basket together with a folded umbrella in hand rushing off to school. She must be a teacher and I am sure she will make some man very happy soon. That must be Mr. Ganguly in his starched white pants, graying, washing the white United Nations light van that he drives, while Mrs. Ganuly dished out her dos and don’ts to him. Funny, how some things never changed. I wonder where are their four kids? Must be all grown up. Daw Ohn Sine from no.29A is still a spinster, living with her sisters and does not talk to anybody. Her face is still the same after all these years, stern and just staring straight. What a woman.

I can see U Maung Maung and U Tin Tun, in their tike pones (Burmese Jackets) with a Shan bag in one hand, while the other held an umbrella rushing off to the bus stop. No.36 (first floor) is as usual all very quiet with all doors and windows shut, U Ah Hein must be in his seventies from no.18 top floor, with a string of grand children leading his troupe to school. The street seller with steamed beans basket balanced on her head advertises her goodies at the top of her voice. The moakhingar peddler with a heavy bamboo pole on his shoulder balancing the gravy with stove on one side and the other consisting of rice noodles, plates, spoons and a small bucket of water plus some stools, gazes onto the apartments wondering who would call him. There for sure will be a few buyers as these are staple breakfast items, here in Yangon. The morning scene was incredible and everyone knows everyone. I think it must be the comradeship and loyalty to each other when outsiders were involved. This type of friendship is lacking in well to do areas, as their next-door neighbour is still some distance away in the adjecent compound. The morning scenery in the street was really rather unique and beautiful, I do not think Rembrandt can do justice in a million years.

With tears welding in my eyes, I must get ready and get dressed into my comfortable traveling clothes for a flight back to Singapore, before my better half switch on her automatic yapping machine of non-stop comments and instructions. Not too kindly to my ears, I’m afraid.